TRIVENTO, IN SPANISH, MEANS “THREE WINDS,” a perfectly descriptive name for the Argentine winery where three beneficial winds blow across its vineyards in the Mendoza region. They are the polar wind of winter, the warming Zonda in the spring and the cooling Sudestada wind of summer. Each plays a vital part in producing the grapes that make the wines of Trivento. With them, winemaker Germán Di Cesare produces a variety of wines including Chardonnay, Torrontes, Pinot Grigio, Cabernet Sauvignon, Pinot Noir, Syrah and, especially, Malbec.
A red grape, Malbec came to Argentina and other parts of South America from France beginning in the mid-1800s. And Malbec adapted spectacularly well, particularly in the Mendoza region, in the western foothills of the Andes. Today, fed by a combination of its weather conditions, altitude and alluvial soils, Argentina produces some of the world’s most successful Malbec. It is a grape that, at its best, makes a deep-colored wine with a medium to full body, a good acidity level and satiny texture.
At a recent luncheon with winemaker Germán di Cesare, we began our tasting with Trivento White Orchid Reserve 2018 ($11), a refreshing white blend of Torrontes and Pinot Grigio. And we continued with an array of Malbecs.
The first, Trivento Reserve Malbec 2017, proves a tasty wine with an appealing aroma and, at $11, an excellent buy. Trivento Amado Sur Malbec Blend 2017 ($15), 70 percent Malbec, displayed deep color, medium body and hints of berries and plums.
Trivento Golden Reserve Malbec 2016 ($21) is full-bodied, well-balanced and bold, with flavors reminiscent of coffee. “A classic Malbec,” Germán said.
We finished with the winery’s top Malbec: Eolo 2015 ($79), an exceptional wine. Eolo, named after a god of wind, has a limited production since its grapes come solely from those grown in a single 10-acre vineyard. Smooth, full-bodied, assertive and seductive, its deep flavors include a bit of spice and toast and boast an especially long finish — a memorable ending to a good tasting.
Germán likes to say, “The best measure of a wine’s worth is an empty bottle.” Our luncheon table, strewn with empty bottles, provided the evidence of Trivento’s value.
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February 2019
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