Arriving by air via direct flights from Bangkok has been possible since 2018, but the best way to enjoy Chiang Mai province in Thailand, from south to north, is to land in Chiang Mai city first, then take a minivan to Pai and leave direct flights to Bangkok for the return trip.
The drive via minvan from Chiang Mai International Airport to Pai’s bus station takes about three hours. If you arrive in the afternoon, begin discovering this tiny town by visiting Pai Canyon. Arriving alittle before sunset presents the perfect time to enjoy this rocky landscape with big crevices and skinny ridges created by erosion. Watch the sun slowly going down to its hideout behind the bar of hills on the horizon, painting the sky in warm colors.
Then head back to Pai city, 3 miles away, to stroll along its Walking Street market operating every evening from 6:00 p.m. along Chaisongkran and Rungsiyanon roads. This long night market hosts many food stalls ranging from classical Phat Thai to burgers and pizzas. But the dish you have to taste at least once when you stay in Northern Thailand is Khao Soi, a local curry noodles dish on the menu of many restaurants. Pai Walking Street, also proves a good place to buy souvenirs, arts and crafts, many kinds of clothing including ethnic clothes and the famous 1864 Curves T-shirts, and to see dance performances and cultural shows.
Other must-visit places a few miles from Pai include the Memorial Bridge originally built by the Japanese during World War II; the white Big Buddha on the top of Wat Phrathat Mae Yen’s hill, offering a nice dominant panorama over the valley; Mo Paeng Waterfall, where you can take a swim; Ban Santichon, a Chinese Yunnan hamlet 3 miles northwest; and Tha Pai Hot Springs for a relaxing time dipping your feet in warm water.
Pai’s peaceful atmosphere often keeps visitors staying longer than they planned, but, when heading to Mae Hong Son, add two stops on the way. First, the Nam Lot Cave, where local guides light the place with their oil lamps and walk you into the two main rooms, the Big Column Cave and the Dolls Cave, before boarding you on bamboo rafts for a little trip on the interior river to reach the third chamber, the Coffin Cave.
Then go to Ban Jabo, a 30-minute drive away, for lunch with a stunning view. This little Lahu hill tribe village sits on the crest of a mountain range overlooking an amazing landscape. It is also very appreciated for the sea of mist blanketing it in the early morning. Several inhabitants offer basic homestays, and campgrounds rent tents.
Once you arrive in Mae Hong Son province, climb up to Wat Phrathat Doi Kong Mu, perched on a summit dominating the city and its airport. With its two Burmese-style chedis, it is the oldest landmark in the province. To the rear near the parking lot, a small coffee shop provides a nice spot to watch the sunset. But the temple also proves a very popular place at dawn, when the town is covered with a thick blanket of mist. Other interesting temples in the town include Wat Phra Non and its reclining Burmese-style Buddha and Wat Hua Wiang, located near the Central Market where Buddhist monks come to collect alms each morning. Wat Hua Wiang also houses an impressive bronze Buddha statue replica of Phra Mahamuni in Mandalay.
The best way to finish a day in Mae Hong Son city? Stroll along its Walking Street edging a small lake, with Wat Chong Kham’s chedi nicely lit, projecting its reflection on the water. Though a small night market, it is definitely one of the most enchanting in Thailand.
Next morning, drive to the Su Tong Pae bamboo bridge, 5 miles from the city. Its 1,640-foot length passes over rice fields and Mae Sa Nga River, and it is the longest bridge ofits kind in the country. Locals built it to connect Ban Kung May Sak to Wat Tham Pu Sa Ma, a temple located on a small hill. At around 6:00 a.m. every morning, the monks receive offerings from villagers on the bridge.
Afterward, Phu Klon Country Club Health Mud Spa makes for the perfect place to treat yourself with mud facial or full-body masks and enjoy a relaxing time in their mineral hot water swimming pool surrounded by palm trees.
The spa sits on the edge of Route 4001, which leads to the charming highland Ban Rak Thai. This hidden gem with Yunnanese houses and oolong tea plantations set around a small lake offers a perfect two- to three-day getaway.
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