The first time I visited New Orleans was with a car full of college friends.We were driving across four states to attend a journalism conference. The editor of our university newspaper had a great aunt who lived in the New Orleans suburb of Gentilly. She welcomed our spontaneous stopover and didn’t mind a bunch of college students crashing on her floor. That was my first taste of New Orleans hospitality, where even impromptu guests are greeted with open arms.

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Seventy-seven percent of New Orleans residents were born in Louisiana. Uprooted by Hurricane Katrina in August 2005, they fled their homes to settle in cities and towns across the country. They moved into hotels, sought refuge with friends and family or set up housekeeping in shelters. While the nation watched the crisis unfold on their televisions, New Orleanians dug deep. They rented apartments and even bought houses in neighboring towns. When the flood waters receded, they returned — if they could.

People like Tommy Ruli, a partner in a local law firm temporarily relocated his business to Baton Rouge and helped find housing for his employees. Two of his brothers and his parents lost their homes in Lakeview. Overnight, Ruli’s family of four grew to nine when his 70-year-old parents, a brother, a sister-in-law and 10-year-old nephew moved into his home. For seven months, he commuted 65 miles to temporary office space in the congested capital city while supervising repairs to his office in New Orleans.

An estimated 55 percent of New Orleans’ pre-Katrina population saw their homes damaged by flood waters more than four feet deep. Neighborhoods were deserted. Uncertain about the future, residents waited for insurance companies and the government to make decisions. They waited for the levees to be repaired. Some, like Ruli’s parents and brother, moved on with their lives. Nearly a year after Katrina, they purchased homes in a town 30 miles from New Orleans.

Housing availability and employment opportunities are the factors that most limit the repopulation of New Orleans according to the RAND Corp., a non-profit think tank that conducted a study to help government officials plan the rebuilding. RAND estimates the population of New Orleans will climb to 272,000 in 2008 — approximately 56 percent of its pre-Katrina numbers. In the meantime, workers are in short supply. Housing is scarce and the cost of property has increased to the point that many workers are commuting long distances. “Help Wanted” signs are posted all over town with even fast-food chains offering sign-on bonuses with $10-an-hour wages.

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It was well past dark when we reached the French Quarter. Young and still naive, we walked along bawdy Bourbon Street, gawking at the provocative posters and peering into the open doorways where hawkers urged the tourists to enter. At Pat O’Brien’s, we drank Hurricane cocktails from 24-ounce souvenir glasses.

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The bulk of the national media covering Hurricane Katrina set up base in the French Quarter. The historic heart of the city suffered wind and rain damage, but was spared the devastating flooding. By last July, more than 90 percent of its restaurants, clubs, hotels and attractions had reopened. That same month, the American Library Association held its annual meeting in the Crescent City. The convention was the city’s first major post-Katrina conference.

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I honeymooned in New Orleans. When the clerk at the front desk of the Bienville House Hotel said, “Good afternoon, Mrs. Twardowski,” I turned around expecting to find my mother-in-law. My husband, Jim, and I spent four romantic days roaming antique shops, people-watching at Café Du Monde, eating Eggs Benedict at Brennan’s, conversing on the porch of the Columns Hotel, listening to jazz in smoke-filled bars and riding the streetcar down St. Charles Avenue past the mansions of the Garden District.

New Orleans is still among the most romantic destinations in America. Tourism was one of the first industries to return after Hurricane Katrina. It remains the lifeblood of the city’s business community. Before Katrina, the economic engine that drove New Orleans was tourism with 10.1 million visitors generating $5 billion in spending. The hospitality and tourism industry was the largest employer in the New Orleans area and the second largest industry in the state of Louisiana. According to the Louisiana Restaurant Association, the post-Katrina status of area restaurants is improving. LRA reports 1,168 (out of 1,882) restaurants are open in Orleans Parish. The local restaurant industry could immediately employ another 5,000 people — if they were available. At press time, there were 178 metro area hotels and motels in operation with 27,921 rooms in inventory. Even faced with the challenges of a decreased population and limited workforce, many landmark establishments have reopened their doors.

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When I moved to New Orleans, I worked as a marketing director for a local hospital. Those first few years we lived in New Orleans, we had company nearly every month. We took our guests on streetcar rides past Tulane and Loyola to the Audubon Zoo. We went shopping for funky finds on Magazine Street. Eating was as much an attraction as any museum. We sampled local culinary delights including shrimp po-boys, and ettouffee. We stood in line for a hamburger at the Camellia Grill; swallowed raw oysters at Acme; and ate gumbo YaYa at Mr. B’s. At night, we listened to music at the Maple Leaf, Snug Harbor or Tipitina’s.

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You can still eat beignets and drink Café Au Lait at Café Du Monde. The antique shops on Royal and Magazine streets are open. The streetcars are coming back; music permeates the French Quarter; restaurants are taking reservations and hotels are booking guests. Nearly all the major attractions including Harrah’s Casino, the Audubon Zoo, the Aquarium of the Americas, the New Orleans Museum of Art, the New Orleans Arena, and the Louisiana Superdome are open.

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In the early ’90s, we moved to the north shore of Lake Pontchartrain where the pine trees are tall and crime rate is low. Still, New Orleans remained a huge part of our lives. We saw Peter Pan fly at the Sanger Theatre and heard nuns sing at Tulane Summer Lyric’s production of “The Sound of Music.” We spent countless Saturdays at the Children’s Museum watching our son play in its pint-sized replica of a grocery store.

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Six months after Katrina, New Orleans celebrated its 150th Mardi Gras. My family spent the day on the roof of a friend’s office building, catching beads and swapping stories. This year our teenage son attended Jazz Fest — without us. Last month, we went to the Audubon Zoo. We counted alligators at the Swamp exhibit and ate jambalaya under shade trees.

The anniversary of the worst natural disaster in United States history has passed. Every place I have ever lived or worked was affected by Katrina. Every person I know has a story to tell. Thousands of people are still rebuilding their homes. The debris is still being hauled away. Yet, life goes on. The holidays soon will be here. When we send seasonal greetings to friends and family, we will enclose an invitation to come visit. We are ready for company and in New Orleans, guests are always welcome.

LODGING

INTERNATIONAL HOUSE

A voodoo altar adorns the International House in June. Seven times a year, the lobby decor changes to reflect the customs and rituals of New Orleans. Gothic church mirrors capture the shimmering candlelight in the hotel’s bar, Loa. The contemporary boutique hotel with its Beaux Arts-style exterior is two blocks from the French Quarter. In lieu of a typical concierge, the hotel’s “Vibe Specialist” can arrange anything from an impromptu crawfish boil to securing a belt buckle in the shape of a fleur-de-lis. $$
INTERNATIONAL HOUSE
221 Camp St.
tel 504 553 9550 fax 504 553 9560
http://www.ihhotel.com

RENAISSANCE ARTS HOTEL

The understated four-story, red-brick Renaissance Arts Hotel is a restored 1910 building that was once home to a local furniture store. Located in the Warehouse/Arts District, the property is a haven for art lovers.The Ogden Museum of Southern Art and the Contemporary Arts Museum is a short walk. Within the hotel,more than three dozen pieces of contemporary art are showcased. A trio of Dale Chihuly glass chandeliers hangs in the lobby. If you order extra towels, they are delivered on an artist’s pallet and a morning wake-up call includes a mini art-history lesson. $$$
RENAISSANCE ARTS HOTEL
700 Tchoupitoulas St.
tel 504 613 2330
http://www.marriott.com

LOEWS NEW ORLEANS HOTEL

The 50-foot indoor lap pool is a cool respite from New Orleans’ famed heat. Guests can enjoy a hot night at Harrah’s Casino which is located across the street from the hotel.The luxury hotel has 24-hour room service, Cafe Adelaide restaurant and a business center. $$$
LOEWS NEW ORLEANS HOTEL
300 Poydras St.
tel 504 595 3300
http://www.loewshotels.com

DINING

PALACE CAFÉ

Contemporary Creole cuisine is served at the Palace Café. Conveniently located at the entrance to the French Quarter, signature dishes include crabmeat cheesecake, andouille-crusted gulf fish and white chocolate bread pudding. Reservations are recommended, but not necessary. $$
PALACE CAFÉ
605 Canal St.
tel 505 523 1661
http://www.palacecafe.com

WINDSOR COURT POLO CLUB

A lavish gourmet spread is served weekdays at the Windsor Court Hotel. The menu changes daily. After lunch, take a self-guided tour of the property’s $8 million European art collection. In the Polo Club, the signature piece is the George V Cup prominently displayed behind the bar. The 25-pound silver trophy was awarded by the King of England to the winner of the 1910 Ascot Races. $$$
WINDSOR COURT POLO CLUB
300 Gravier St.
tel 888 596 0955
http://www.windsorcourthotel.com

BRENNAN’S

The view is a lush French Quarter courtyard. The meal is breakfast.The three-course event begins with soup — try the turtle. The entrees are a dozen egg dishes. For dessert sample the restaurant’s most requested item — Bananas Foster. $$$
BRENNAN’S
417 Royal St.
tel 504 525 9711
http://www.brennansneworleans.com

INFO TO GO

The Louis Armstrong International Airport (MSY) is located 15 miles from the French Quarter and the central business district. Cab fare is a flat rate of $28 for one or two people. Airport shuttle service to area hotels and rental car service are available.