FX Excursions

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Mid-Century Milk Bar Tradition in Warsaw Opens as Contemporary Dining Destination and Coffee Shop

by Ron Bernthal

Aug 29, 2024

© Yassen Hristov

Daily

International design firm YODEZEEN, founded by Artur Sharf and Artem Zverev, officially unveiled its latest project this spring. Milk Bar Warsaw is located in Poland’s capital city, its design influences coming directly from the owners’ European and Ukrainian backgrounds. Sharf and Zverev transformed a 3,229-square-foot space in the heart of the city that reimagines the traditional Milk Bar cafeterias following World War II in Poland and Ukraine.

Milk Bar

© Yassen Hristov

Some surviving Milk Bars have a long history, all the way back to 1896 when a Warsaw-based dairy farmer Stanisław Dłużewski opened the first Bar Mleczny (Milk Bar). In the early days, Milk Bars sold cheap milk and egg-based meals, but these days many have since developed into much more than that. After World War II, “normal” restaurants in Poland were hard to find, so if you wanted to eat out, you had no other choice but to go to a Milk Bar. They rose in popularity as an all-purpose, cafeteria-style venue that today provides a snapshot of mid-century life in Eastern Europe.

To bring this traditional East European concept into the contemporary dining landscape, YODEZEEN worked to create a weathered look to the materials in order to convey an unpolished and organic feel to the venue. The result is a welcoming space for locals and visitors to experience throughout the day and into the evening.

Today’s Milk Bar Warsaw layout was meticulously planned to prioritize comfort over optimal seating capacity, and draws some inspiration from the early American diner concept. And like American diners, Milk Bar Warsaw’s online menu (translated in three languages) offers a large variety of comfort food, with American, Polish and Ukrainian cuisine and drinks.

The terrazzo flooring of the space was sourced from Italy, while other interior elements, including furniture, bar counters, mirrors, sinks, partitions and wall panels, were manufactured in Ukraine.

A highlight of Milk Bar Warsaw is the communal table produced from high-quality Ukrainian poplar wood, accompanied by a towering mirror. From an architectural standpoint, YODEZEEN preserved the recognizable identity of the original Milk Bars widely known in Kyiv and throughout Ukraine.

restaurant

© Yassen Hristov

This use of muted blue tones, along with warm wooden elements on the walls and furnishings, have become Milk Bar Warsaw’s aesthetic trademark. The space’s industrial-beige tones were also carefully integrated into the interior design. Additionally, on sunny days, the expansive panoramic windows flood the space with light.

The interior design of Milk Bar Warsaw reflects the owners’ timeless and playful approach, from its stucco wall piece in the take-out area to the trees and plants placed throughout the space. A stylish milk bottle is ingrained on the floor at the entrance to the space.

Milk Bar

© Yassen Hristov

YODEZEEN’s Milk Bar stands as a testament to the juxtaposition of tradition and modernity, creating a contemporary space that caters to the preferences of bar mleczny enthusiasts while offering a design-savvy experience and good comfort food for both the residents of Warsaw and international visitors.

Milk Bar Warsaw is located in a building formerly a Elektrownia Powiśle (a power plant), constructed in 1904 to generate electricity for the city. Instead of being demolished, it was repurposed into a cultural and artistic space in the early 21st century. Today, the building now hosts various events and exhibitions, in addition to housing Milk Bar Warsaw, and all contribute to the vibrant cultural scene in the city.

Milk Bar is nestled in a lovely Warsaw neighborhood along picturesque Vistula River, just a short walk to the city’s historic Old Town, adding to the allure of this Milk Bar’s location. The surrounding area offers an abundance of cafés, authentic pizzerias, wine bars and third-wave coffee shops with experienced baristas.

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