If you were a seabird, or perhaps tethered to a balloon drifting through the blue heavens above Stockholm, the city would reveal itself as a collection of islands linked by bridges. It’s no elaboration: Sweden‘s capital is actually an archipelago of 14 separate islands, joined to one another by more than 50 bridges that create an enticing embroidery of tantalizing neighborhoods and historic districts.
My husband, James, and I chose this destination as a well-earned respite after an intense few months of book deadlines, family visits, house renovations and work meetings scattered between London and Reykjavík. It was a good decision. In spite of its status as a major European capital, there’s a mellowness to Stockholm that proves ideal for resetting the scales of daily life and pursuing the ever-elusive state of equilibrium.
Our exquisite accommodations at the storied Grand Hôtel helped us get off on a wonderful start to our getaway. From our suite, views of the Royal Palace silhouetted against the sky just across the water prompted us to book a tour. We entered through the palace gardens, known as Logården, which serve as a kind of ceremonial entrance to the grounds. While the original gardens were laid out in the early 1700s, we wandered through a Baroque version created more recently in 1930, with elms shaped like pyramids; sculpted hedges; wide steps between levels; and long, narrow ponds. Our Royal Walk audio guide entertained us with details and stories about the architecture and many sculptural elements on view.
PHOTO: © FREESURF69 | DREAMSTIME
After our tour we made our way to Stortorget, the main square in the city’s old town, called Gamla Stan. Here a labyrinth of cobbled streets wends past charming old houses, shops and cafés. We discover the historic district is quite extensive and includes not only Stadsholmen island but also the islets of Strömsborg, Riddarholmen and Helgeandsholmen.
We wandered until the scent of freshly brewed coffee and our internal clocks lured us across the threshold of a café. It’s mid-afternoon — time for fika, the Swedish equivalent of a tea and coffee break. When James and I are both working from our home offices, we make it a point to stop around 2 or 3 o’clock in the afternoon to re-caffeinate and enjoy a small snack, and we notice Stockholm’s cafés fill up with others who apparently share our passion for a scheduled interlude in the work day. We slipped into Café Krans, lured by the display of breads in the shop window, and were delighted to find the menu also features a selection of gorgeous cakes.
The afternoon included a visit to The National Museum, close to the palace. After perusing The Design Depot to learn about the long history of ceramics through exhibits of materials and decorations, we visited The Treasury, where an astounding number of miniature paintings, pocket watches, jewelry and boxes has been assembled. In The Sculpture Courtyard we viewed contributions by significant artists, writers and other creators from Swedish culture displayed among carved depictions of mythical beings that include Thor, Odin and Balder
Our second full day in Stockholm began with a late breakfast at the hotel. I pretend I’m going to have my usual fruit and yogurt, then order the Swedish pancakes with berries, simply because the setting demands it. We lingered over the last of our meal, then took a leisurely walk to the harbor. Maybe it was the liquid, luminous light that filled the city, but we found ourselves drawn to the water and boarded a sightseeing boat for a guided, hour-long tour. The crew, waiting near a towering statue of Gustav III, helped us onto a sleek mahogany craft that once provided transportation for royalty.
PHOTO:
© MIKAEL DUNKER, THE VASA MUSEUM/SMTM
On the upper deck the roof opened to the blue sky, and we settled in as our guide pointed out sights that include the palace and the island of Djurgården. Originally private parkland where King Erick XIV retreated from state duties to relax and hunt, the island is now part park and part recreational destination, with modern entertainment options such as the popular ABBA The Museum. The cruise also took us past Vasa Museum, where an almost impossibly preserved warship from the 17th century sits on display.
Intrigued, we set off for Vasa Museum after our own vessel returned safely to her berth. Due to what historians and investigators believe were design flaws in the hull and the relentless force of gravity, Vasa sank into the icy harbor waters on her maiden voyage. Salvage efforts began in 1961, and to date more than 40,000 artifacts have been recovered, including the ship herself. While rotating displays mean no two visits to the museum will likely be the same, significant objects including Vasa and her intricately carved figurehead of a Folkunga lion consistently remain on view.
Post-Vasa display, we embarked on a fascinating follow-up at Vrak Museum of Wrecks, where interactive displays, film and exhibitions related to maritime archaeology explore the hidden world beneath the cold Baltic Sea and the challenges particular to diving and wreck recovery in Sweden’s waters.
Later, ready for fresh air, we set off on one more adventure. Partly because I write a mystery-crime novel series and partly because I love long walks, James indulged me with a guided tour of the locations from Swedish author Stieg Larsson’s Millennium trilogy, which includes The Girl with the Dragon Tattoo. The two-hour tour takes in the island of Södermalm and brought us past the home addresses of the trilogy’s main characters and their favorite city haunts.
We ended the afternoon with fika at a trendy café where apples are a theme among the pastries. Mine had succulent slices of fruit seasoned with nutmeg and cinnamon; James had something with melted chocolate. We took our time, listening to the rustle of people coming and going and to snippets of conversation and laughter. No one seemed to be in a hurry, and I glanced at my husband across the table, surprised to find I had no desire to do anything except sit here, savoring the light and scents and sounds intrinsic to this graceful city … except, perhaps, take a long Swedish nap before dinner.
LODGING
Grand Hôtel
History and glamour blend seamlessly in this magnificent structure overlooking the water, with suite selections offering views of Gamla Stan and Royal Palace. Book a signature Nordic Beauty therapy or indulgent Suite Treat session at Nordic Spa.
Södra Blasieholmshamnen 8, Stockholm
$$$$–$$$$$
Stockholm Stadshotell
Opening this winter, this highly anticipated boutique property is housed in a landmark building commissioned by Queen Josephina in memory of King Oscar I. Along with 32 poshly appointed rooms, guests can enjoy a cocktail lounge and two restaurants. During summer and fall, book a table in the garden courtyard.
Björngårdsgatan 23, Stockholm
$$$$–$$$$$
Villa Dahlia
This newly opened familial mansion- turned-hotel makes the third addition to the exclusive Diplomat portfolio. Soothing neutrals, Italian murals and rich textiles, including Swedish tapestries, fuse to create a refined and romantic setting.
Tegnérlunden 8, Stockholm
$$$$–$$$$$
DINING
Bacchanale
Cozy setting enhanced by heavenly scents emanating from a wood-burning oven. Menu stars include Southern European dishes made with fresh, local fare. Operated by the same accomplished restauranteurs who run Främmat in Vasastan.
Ringvägen 110, Stockholm
$$$
Gondolen
Recently reopened after extensive refurbishments, this elegant venue features regional favorites including fish gratin, prepared with local ingredients. Served up with dinner: unparalleled views of Gamla Stan, Djurgården and the waters of Saltsjön.
Stadsgården 6, Stockholm
$$$–$$$$
Seafood Gastro
Enjoy elevated dining with menus created by Chef Mathias Dahlgren, focusing on regional dishes with local ingredients from the surrounding waters including seaweed, seabirds, shellfish and coastal greens. Try the tasting menu with beverage pairings.
Grand Hôtel, Södra Blasieholmsh- amnen 8, Stockholm
$$$$$
INFO TO GO
Stockholm-Arlanda Airport is located about 25 miles from city center. Multiple companies operate airport taxis, found at queues outside of the arrivals terminal. Fare prices aren’t regulated, though many companies offer fixed prices to downtown locations. Avoid illegal taxis, called svarttaxi (black taxi). Ride-share services are also available, along with buses and trains. The Arlanda Express train departs from the lower level of both terminals and provides direct service to and from Stockholm Central Station approximately every 15 minutes. Purchase tickets online, via app or at ticket kiosks in the arrivals terminal. Access regional and city trains from the lower level of the airport (follow signs). Buses and the Flygbussarna airport bus connect to City Terminal (Cityterminalen). Most major rental car companies are represented in the arrivals terminal.
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