When Waikiki bartender Harry Yee concocted a sinfully delightful libation known as the Tropical Itch in 1957, little did he imagine his recipe for cheer would create such a perennial stir. Half a century later, quaffing this colorful beverage has become a ritual among travelers hitting Hawaii to scratch their own tropical itch.

I can attest to Hawaii’s subliminal manner of slipping under your skin. It begins with a warming of the heart and an elevated sense of excitement. Then there’s a ravenous hunger for more, which intensifies with each new discovery. At any time, however, you may feel prone to simply relax on the beach and surrender to euphoria.

While sun, sand and surf are illustrious headliners, aloha spirit, rich history and diverse recreation will also steal the show. Linking the celebrated storylines are cultural festivals, world-class sporting competitions and culinary events drawing visitors year-round.

Those into surfing can catch Oahu’s Vans Triple Crown in late November and early December. Marathoners make a run for it on Maui and Oahu, with 2009 seeing an inaugural 26.2-miler on Kauai. The NFL Pro Bowl kicks off on Oahu each February. And then there’s golf: Etched within dramatic island landscapes are more than 80 courses, showcasing championship layouts designed and played by legends of the game.

Food enthusiasts relish a robust roster of temptations like the Kapalua Wine & Food Festival, the Maui Onion Festival, Oahu’s Seafood Festival, A Taste of Kauai and the Waikiki Spam Jam — an annual affair showcasing the canned oddity that’s become a Hawaiian staple. You’ll also find a festival honoring every ethnic group comprising Hawaii’s melting pot, a rich diversity created by the sugar and pineapple industries.

No wonder this American paradise refuses to rest on its laurels. Hawaii continues to laud its storied past while embracing a vibrant present, and its future brims with as much promise as its beaches brim with grains of gorgeous sand.

Energetic Oahu

Eclectic and lively, Oahu sets Hawaii’s rhythm with a bit of each island in a single serving. On one hand, you’ll find a chic urban resort thriving with new-wave cuisine, trendy nightlife and luxe accommodations. On the other, it’s a nostalgic charmer with time-warp towns, lush rainforests, stellar surf beaches and rural roads lined with homegrown produce stands.

Aside from being the birthplace of President-elect Barack Obama, Oahu’s big hoopla these days is the dramatic renaissance of Waikiki. Fatigued venues have been replaced with open-air, pedestrian-friendly plazas that seamlessly merge modern amenities with legendary icons.

Nothing exemplifies the revitalization more than the upbeat Waikiki Beach Walk (www.waikikibeachwalk.com), an ambitious $535 million transformation of a worn, congested area into a festive entertainment district. In addition to dozens of specialty retail and dining options, it’s home to the refreshed Outrigger Reef on the Beach, OHANA Islander Waikiki, Embassy Suites, Wyndham Vacation Ownership and the Trump International Hotel & Tower (www.trumpwaikikihotel.co.jp) that’s slated to open in August.

Also making waves is the Royal Hawaiian Center (www.royalhawaiiancenter.com), with a $115 million rejuvenation converting its former concrete courtyard into one of the largest green spaces in Waikiki. The center’s lush Royal Grove is briskly becoming a centerpiece for gatherings, performances and complimentary enrichment classes.

Not to be eclipsed, hotels are on the same enhancement track. Paramount is the venerable Royal Hawaiian Hotel, reopening this month as part of Starwood’s Luxury Collection. The restoration has redefined “The Pink Palace” as a premier lu xury property with its Abhasa Spa and “Tower within a Tower” concept.

Other Waikiki hotels seeing revitalizations include Waikiki Beach Marriott Resort & Spa, Sheraton Waikiki, Hilton Hawaiian Village Beach Resort & Spa, OHANA Waikiki Beachcomber and Halekulani Hotel. Spas are also generating quite a buzz, with a pair of newcomers opening at Moana Surfrider, A Westin Resort, and Sheraton Waikiki.

Even downtown Honolulu is witnessing a revival with an intriguing collection of museums, galleries, edgy eateries, bustling Chinatown and significant historic landmarks. Cuban cafés and Eurasian hotspots tantalize the taste buds as an intriguing arts and cultural scene enlivens the mind.

While Waikiki presents a generous menu of ocean activities, Oahu’s Windward and North shores share aquatic action “local style.” Accommodations are limited to sprawling Turtle Bay Resort on the North Shore and JW Marriott Ihilani at Ko Olina Resort & Spa on the Leeward Coast — both cases where quality overcompensates for quantity.

Looking for adventure? You can safely dive among sharks with North Shore Shark Adventures (www.sharktourshawaii.com), learn to catch a wave from surf master Hans Hedeman (www.hhsurf.com) or snorkel the crystal-clear waters at Hanauma Bay. Paddle a kayak to the Mokulua Islands off happening Kailua Beach with Twogood Kayaks (www.twogoodkayaks.com) or sail with a dolphin escort from Ko Olina Marina(www.koolinamarina.com). On dry land, you can tour tobacco heiress Doris Duke’s estate, Shangri La, or navigate an ATV through scenic valleys at Kualoa Ranch (www.kualoa.com).

My personal favorite, however, is motoring up the Windward Coast for lunch at the bright-yellow shrimp truck in Punaluu. I top it off with a shave ice in the quaint surf hamlet of Haleiwa before heading to Mokuleia’s Dillingham Field for a flight with Original Glider Rides (www.honolulusoaring.com). Soaring silently above Oahu’s remote northwestern tip in a bubble-topped aircraft, this aerial adventure is packed with “wow” sensations from take-off to landing.

The Magic of Maui

Anyone who has ever visited Maui can vouch that this rare escape delivers everything it promises at every level. In fact, there’s a saying, “Maui No Ka Oi,” which means “Maui is the best.” And when you experience this island adorned with 81 beaches, it’s difficult to disagree.

Neither too small nor too large, the manageable retreat exudes an easy attitude with options that run the gamut from rubber slippers in the sand to five-diamond glitz. For obvious reasons, resorts have emerged along the finest stretches of shoreline, and the beach fronting The Ritz-Carlton, Kapalua, is among the best. Equally striking, however, are the continuous coves at Wailea and Makena, and the three-mile span of golden sand at Kaanapali.

Always shooting to stay a step ahead, Maui properties constantly upgrade and embellish their offerings. While many have undergone renovations, North Kaanapali Beach will welcome a brand-new option this month with the first phase of the 628-room Honua Kai Resort & Spa. A second phase will open in spring 2010.

If you’re into adventure, prepare to run wild. In the same day, you can drive above the clouds for a brilliant sunrise atop the 10,000-foot Haleakala Crater, enjoy a plate lunch in funky Paia, ooh and aah at topsy-turvy windsurfers off Hookipa Beach, then watch the sun slip below the horizon from Kaanapali. Or venture via ferry, small plane or catamaran to scuba dive in Lanai’s Hulopoe Bay, or hike along Molokai’s east end with a native Hawaiian guide.

Less traditional but extremely palatable is the Upcountry agritourism focus at Surfing Goat Dairy, Tedeschi Vineyards at Ulupalakua Ranch and Alii Kula Lavender Farm. Sharing Maui’s culinary bounty is Tour da Food Maui, a new ethnic cuisine excursion hitting the tastiest local hau nts. Or simply stop by Bev Gannon’s Haliimaile General Store to sample island-influenced dishes on your own.

Those who are crazy about whales prefer visiting in the winter. From December to April, as many as 10,000 humpbacks feed in warm Hawaiian waters. And they seem to congregate in greater numbers off Maui, so it’s an ideal time to witness these massive mammals from a slew of excursions departing Lahaina and Maalaea harbors.

Need still more thrills? Cut through the ocean with Hawaiian Sailing Canoe Adventures (www.mauisailingcanoe.com), tackle a 125-foot zip-rappel through the canyons with Maui Canyon Adventures (www.mauicanyons.com), snorkel off Molokini or tally switchbacks on the white-knuckle drive to Hana. For a tamer time, take a journey through Hawaiian history at the theatrical Ulalena (www.ulalena.com) or explore marine life without getting wet at Maui Ocean Center (www.mauioceancenter.com).

Kauai’s Timeless Intrigue

The matriarch of the Hawaiian Islands, Kauai is a natural wonderland with visual gifts so bedazzling that Hollywood covets it for one blockbuster after another. Even the most talented of set designers would be hard-pressed to create more stunning scenery.

Mother Nature’s gifts are matchless here, from the vibrant colors of Waimea Canyon to Polihale’s 17-mile secluded stretch of sand. Toss in jagged ridges and deeply etched valleys bathed by cascading waterfalls, and you’ll uncover one postcard-perfect setting after another.

Remaining mild-mannered and free of razzle-dazzle, Kauai mesmerizes with its own refreshing flavor of resorts, accommodations and activities. Princeville’s lush Bali Hai enchantment on the North Shore stands in contrast to the sun-splashed southern shores of Poipu. Even lower key are the West Side, with its quaint shops and empty beaches, and Kalapaki and Royal Coconut Coast near the gateway town of Lihue.

On the accommodations horizon for 2009 are Poipu’s 121-room boutique-style Koa Kea Hotel & Resort and the 323-unit Koloa Landing at Poipu Beach. And on the North Shore, the high-end Westin Princeville Ocean Resort has added 173 two-bedroom villas to the mix. Taking it up another level this spring, Princeville Resort will reopen as a St. Regis, elevating its status to Starwood’s most exclusive brand.

While ocean action is a powerful lure for most, serene Kauai is even more magnetic for trailblazers eager to explore new paths. Arguably, few treks are as spectacular as the zigzagging Kalalau Trail that overhangs the breathtaking Napali Coast.

Not up to the rugged 11-mile trek but bent on witnessing its beauty? Operators like Blue Dolphin Charters (www.kauaiboats.com) depart Port Allen Harbor to cruise up the imposing coastline past 3,000-foot sea cliffs, lush valleys, waterfalls and sea caves — all as spinner dolphins put on a show.

For diversions that move to a different beat, you can catch a bird’s-eye view of Kauai’s plush landscape from a helicopter tour with Island Helicopters (www.islandhelicopters.com) or thrill to a full-moon zip-line trek with Just Live (www.justlive.org). Explore the island’s diverse agricultural roots aboard the Kilohana Plantation Railway (www.kauaiplantationrailway.com), or book a kayaking trip up Hawaii’s only navigable rivers with Kayak Kauai (t=“_blank”>www.kayakkauai.com). And you won’t want to miss the decadence at Steelgrass Chocolate Farm (www.steelgrass.org/chocolate/ index.html) — take a tour of its eight-acre tropical garden of vanilla, bamboo and theobroma cacao, the chocolate tree.

My offbeat pick, however, is flopping into an inner tube to thread through tunnels and plantation irrigation ditches into the island’s heart with Kauai Backcountry Adventures (www.kauaibackcountry.com). The water does all the work as you kick back and go with the flow.

DINING

GAYLORD’S AT KILOHANA
Gazing across the manicured lawns of this 1930s plantation mansion, it’s easy to imagine how the Wilcox family grew accustomed to their eloquent sugarcane-era lifestyle. Then the aroma of your repast draws you back to a delicious reality. Crowning the 1,700-acre Kilohana Estate, Gaylord’s creates a pleasant atmosphere for savoring specialties like fire-grilled ahi and Chef Oliver Shagnasty’s signature baby back ribs. For the ultimate, try the seafood rhapsody — a tantalizing union of tiger prawns, sea scallops, local fish and lobster garnished with passionfruit butter sauce.$$$
GAYLORD’S AT KILOHANA
3–2087 Kaumualii Hwy., Lihue, Kauai
tel 808 245 9593
www.gaylordskauai.com

HOKU’S
This shining restaurant is well deserving of its moniker, the Hawaiian word for “star.” Just beyond Diamond Head in glitzy Kahala, the upscale eatery is heralded for innovative fusion fare that melds Hawaiian, Asian and European flavors. With panoramic Pacific views and an open kitchen vying for attention, Hoku’s presents such exotic dishes as Kiawe smoked Tasmanian salmon, lavender-olive-crusted rack of Colorado lamb and butter-poached rock lobster. The cuisine is fresh and light, with ingredients that tastefully merge locally grown produce with imports.$$$$
HOKU’S
Kahala Hotel & Resort, 5000 Kahala Ave., Honolulu
tel 808 739 8780
www.kahalaresort.com

MAMA’S FISH HOUSE
Tucked within an oceanfront coconut grove, this converted beach house radiates traditional Polynesia. Local woods, exotic flora and tropical artifacts define the colorful interior, where award-winning cuisine and unpretentious service team for a culinary fantasy come true. So in-the-moment is the daily menu that it reflects where the fresh catch was hauled in and the fisherman’s name. Executive Chef Perry Bateman draws on his multi-ethnic background to work wizardry on such specialties as papaya seed grilled shrimp and macadamia-nut-crusted pork tenderloin. $$$$
MAMA’S FISH HOUSE
799 Poho Place, Paia, Maui
tel 808 579 9764
www.mamasfishhouse.com

LODGING

GRAND HYATT KAUAI RESORT & SPA
With the elegance of grand plantations that once defined Kauai, this AAA Four Diamond getaway recaptures old Hawaii in a style that’s stately without being pretentious. Set on 50 oceanfront acres fringing Poipu’s stunning Keoneloa Bay, the 602-room haven features seven restaurants, the recently expanded Anara Spa, Camp Hyatt kids’ club and a water playground that alone merits the stay. Kayak in a saltwater lagoon, unwind in a Jacuzzi and blaze down a 150-foot waterslide. Both relaxing and rejuvenating, this high-end playground caters to all ages.$$$$
GRAND HYATT KAUAI RESORT & SPA
1571 Poipu Road, Koloa, Kauai
tel 808 742 1234
www.grandhyattkauai.com

MAUI PRINCE HOTEL, MAKENA
Riding high following a recent multimillion-dollar guestroom renovation, Maui Prince Hotel is situated on a ¼-mile stretch of white-sand beach at the foot of Haleakala, Maui’s highest mountain. The hotel centers on an Asian meditation garden with stone paths, quiet corners, waterfalls and streams swarming with brilliant red and gold carp. Every guestroom opens to the garden while windows and lanais face the ocean. A complimentary shuttle transports guests to the 36-hole, par-72 Robert Trent Jones, Jr.-designed Makena golf courses.$$$$
MAUI PRINCE HOTEL, MAKENA
5400 Makena Alanui, Makena, Maui
tel 808 874 1111
www.princeresortshawaii.com

TURTLE BAY RESORT
On the heels of an extensive makeover, this 443-room hideaway once again lives up to the image equated with its legendary North Shore neighborhood. Perched on an undisturbed five-mile beach, the expansive “country” destination features spacious guestrooms, beach cottages and ocean villas overlooking a radiant domain. Diversions include the Spa Luana, oceanfront swimming pool, horseback riding, 12 miles of hiking trails, tennis center, world-class dining, surf school and two championship golf courses.

While all guestrooms have ocean views, splurge on a luxurious beach bungalow for ultimate privacy. $$$
TURTLE BAY RESORT
57–091 Kamehameha Hwy., Kahuku, Oahu
tel 808 293 6000
www.turtlebayresort.com

INFO TO GO
Major airlines fly from the continental United States to Honolulu International Airport (HNL) on Oahu, Maui Airport (OGG) in Kahului and Lihue Airport (LIH) on Kauai. Connecting flights among the islands are provided by Go!, Hawaiian, Island Air and Pacific Wings. Or try the Hawaii Superferry (www.hawaiisuperferry.com), Hawaii’s only inter-island passenger and vehicle ferry operating between Oahu and Maui. Visit www.gohawaii.com.