Ernest Hemingway said, “Wine is the most civilized thing in the world.” And according to William Congreve, “Music has charms to soothe a savage breast.” Fuse the two in a gorgeous waterfront location on a spectacular spring day in New York City, satisfied serenity reigns with a bit of bacchanalian flair.

Many things have changed in our world since Global Traveler last hosted the Wines on the Wing airline wine competition. In 2020 the event was held on a smaller scale before a three-year pause. This year we revived the competition for its 18th iteration in a new space with some familiar faces. I am honored to take the wine key passed on by the great wine writer Eunice Fried, who recently retired but left a clear path and legacy to follow.

In 2019 we hosted the 16th annual Wines on the Wing at the original City Winery on Varick Street in Manhattan. I was lucky to have seen one of the first informal shows there before it officially opened in 2008, played by winemaker Bob Foley and his band, with some other NYC sommeliers in the audience listening to their music and sharing the wines he made at the time (Hourglass, Switchback Ridge and, of course, Robert Foley Vineyards). What better way to revive our event than by holding the 2024 competition in the new location at Hudson River Park on Pier 57. Michael Dorf (interviewed in GT’s May 2024 issue) and his team created another world-class venue in which to sip and listen and watch the water and world go by. It’s a working winery in the middle of one of the world’s capitals as well as an oasis for performers and fans. And for those of you traveling to Atlanta; Boston; Chicago; Nashville; Washington, D.C.; St. Louis; Pittsburgh; or Philadelphia, you’ll find a City Winery in those locations as well.

Seventeen incredible and established wine professionals joined us to evaluate the wines sent in by participating airlines. The airlines sent Global Traveler both their wine lists based on class of service and the corresponding bottles of wine to be judged. All wines were served, tasted and judged blind: The judges were told only the category of wines being served — Champagne or California Cabernet, for example. To further the blind nature of the tasting, all the wines were poured behind the scenes and served without the judges catching a peek of the bottle shape or capsule in order to keep all focus strictly on the liquid in the glasses in front of them.

A huge thank you to our judges who were treated to a lovely view of the Hudson River and Little Island Park but also had to suffer through tasting world-class wines all afternoon while locals and tourists enjoying the day strolled by in the sun, jealously peering in. A warm thank you as well to the staff at City Winery who executed our rapid wine service with poise and grace.

When all was said and done, the last wine served, tasted and judged, the airline that ranked at the top of International First Class service was STARLUX Airlines, based in Taiwan. Its impressive lineup featuring classic regions from around the world included its Champagne offering, Bollinger La Grande Année 2014, and its whites: Schloss Gobelsburg, Ried Grub 1 OTW Gruner Veltliner Kamptal DAC Austria; and Cuvée Fredrich Emile 2016, a superb Riesling from the Trimbach Family which has made wine in Alsace since 1626. The reds were Château Bélair-Monange Premier Grand Cru Classé, Saint- Émilion 2014, on the Right Bank of Bordeaux; and Silver Oak Alexander Valley Cabernet Sauvignon 2018.

“As a luxury airline, STARLUX Airlines is dedicated to surpassing passengers’ expectations by offering them the best in-flight experience,” said Jessie Chen, Cabin Services Division, STARLUX. “We meticulously consider various factors — including the impact of cabin pressure on taste and smell, the positioning of cabin classes, the distinctions among globally renowned wine regions, and the characteristics of grape varieties — in the evaluation of our wine list.

“Our wine selection team is led by Mr. William Hsu, Jr., a highly esteemed wine expert and consultant in Taiwan. The wines are chosen based on the consistent quality of the winery, the uniqueness of the brand, and its popularity across diverse demographics. Additionally, each selected wine undergoes a professional blind tasting and is paired with the appropriate meal, ensuring the best experience for STARLUX passengers.”

For International Business Class service, Qatar Airways scored the highest overall with its Champagne selections represented by Champagne Gosset Brut Grande Reserve and Billecart- Salmon Brut; whites were Starmont Vineyards Chardonnay 2019 from Carneros, California, and Babich Black Label Sauvignon Blanc from Marlborough, New Zealand 2021. Its reds in the category were Château Malartic-Lagravière Grand Cru Classé Pessac-Leognan 2014 and Penfolds Bin 28 Shiraz South Australia 2019. While not all of these wines appear in the winners’ list, they all contributed to the airline’s overall strong showing. Qatar also offered some impressive wines in the International First Class category, showcasing a strong commitment to its guests.

Air France was beaten just by a nose in the overall International First Class rankings, but its guests enjoy what our judges selected as the top-scoring Champagne (also served by British Airways to its international first-class guests): Laurent-Perrier Grand Siecle Grande Cuvée, based on multiple vintages. Air France’s whites included our second-highest-scoring wine in the category, Grand Vin de Bourgogne Meursault Albert Bichot 2018. Air France also had a strong second in the reds with an offering from the Right Bank of Bordeaux: Château La Dominique Grand Cru Classé Saint-Émilion Grand Cru 2016.

Bordeaux seemed to flex its regional might quite a bit for our judges. Brussels Airlines also claimed a top spot with Bordeaux in the International Business Class reds category with Château Clément-Pichon Haut-Médoc – Cru Bourgeois Supérieur 2018. Brussels Airlines selects its in-flight wines once a year in a two-day blind tasting in which about 15 colleagues from across the company, all passionate about wine, volunteer to participate. Under the direction of Brussels’ wine consultant Jan De Clercq, Master of Wine (MW), assisted by Johan Duwijn and Philip Mortier (both Sommeliers-Conseils), the team samples wines from 15 categories, opening 200–250 bottles in total. French wines are preferred for the airline’s passenger profile.

Bordeaux bottles submitted weren’t limited only to reds, as United Airlines came in with the top-scoring white wine in the International Business Class category with Château de Cruzeau Grand Vin de Bordeaux 2020. For its Polaris class service, United selects wines in one of two ways: through a formal Request for Proposal process or through development of strategic relationships/partnerships with prestigious wineries. Outside of the formal RFP process, the United Beverage Team is constantly leveraging deep industry experience and relationships to source highly allocated wines from prestigious wineries.

For the overall Wines on the Wing Alliance category, it was a dead heat in the stretch, but a photo finish had oneworld taking the crown just a head bob over SkyTeam to claim its spot in the winners’ circle. Star Alliance came in with a strong close third following.

As the tasting finished up and the afternoon sun warmed the room, many of the judges relaxed with jackets off, chatting about which wines they liked best. City Winery staff moved quickly to flip the room for the evening’s events. We poured wine to share and enjoy, taking a well-earned break from the work of judging a wine blind on its merits. As I sipped some Bordeaux with the day’s work winding down, I was reminded of one of the great 20th-century ambassadors for this region in New York, Alexis Lichine, who said, “The best way to learn about wine is in the drinking.” No doubt the judges with cumulative centuries of wine experience would agree, whether standing on the ground of our little island of Manhattan or contemplating a glass of wine en route to another destination, comfortably seated 35,000 feet in the air.

HOW WE JUDGE
To participate in Global Traveler’s competition, airlines throughout the world that operate long-haul international first-class service and/or business-class service are invited to submit two white wines, two red wines and one Champagne or other sparkling wine currently on their wine lists, as well as the wine lists themselves. The same rules apply to our North America category which includes airlines with first-class and/or business-class service beginning and ending in North America. All wines are coded and divided into flights, or categories, according to their type. For example, all New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc submitted would be judged together, as would all Rioja. Wines are presented to judges in code-marked glasses. Judges are told only the type of wine and, when appropriate (vintage Champagne, for example), the year. If judges feel a wine is flawed, a reserve bottle is poured. Professional assistants pour the wines, and GT staff monitor the tasting.

Each wine is judged on a modified Davis 20-point scale. The judges’ individual scores for each wine are added and averaged, and the average scores of an airline’s submissions are totaled. Individual wines with the highest scores and the airlines with the highest total scores win Wines on the Wing awards.

JUDGES

CESAR BAEZA is an oenologist and a consultant for the wine industry. A native of Chile, he studied winemaking there and in France, Spain and California, and worked at several wineries. For 20 years he was wine master and co-owner of Brotherhood Winery in New York.

J. SCOTT CARNEY, MS, is a wine educator, working in concert with the Court of Master Sommeliers at both the International Culinary Center in Soho until 2020 and presently at Institute of Culinary Education in lower Manhattan.

MOLLY CHOI is senior vice president of marketing and brand management at Broadbent. Before joining Broadbent, she spent more than 20 years at Cape Classics as marketing manager and spent two years in the cannabis industry.

BRIAN DIMARCO is founder, managing partner and master blender at Harlem Standard and a classically trained chef and sommelier with more than 30 years of expertise in advertising and marketing. Brian founded Barterhouse Wines and Spirits, which achieved more than $100 million in sales and introduced 30-plus brands to the U.S. and New York markets. He founded Harlem Standard in 2020, offering a modern take on American whiskey.

MICHAEL DORF is founder of City Winery, started in 2006, as well as the founder of the iconic Knitting Factory, one of New York’s longest- running music venues. Dorf wanted to create a space in Manhattan where he could combine his shared passions for wine and music.

CARL ETCHEVERRY, a certified sommelier, was, for almost a decade, wine director of The Union League of Philadelphia, rated USA Best City Club five consecutive times. French Wine Scholar of the Wine Scholar Guild, Carl Etcheverry has been invited by Society of Wine Educators on multiple occasions to conduct wine seminars and tastings at its annual conference. He is one of the SWE’s best-rated guest speakers. Recruited in 2022 by Hôtel Musée Premières Nations on Wendat Indian Reserve near Québec Old City, Etcheverry manages a cellar collection featuring original wines produced by Native wineries.

JOHN FANNING is director of private dining of Il Gattopardo Group. He has been wine director and/or general manager of other restaurants in New York: Hakkasan, The Lambs Club, SD26, Accademia di Vino, Il Trulli, Beppe, Felidia, Coco Pazzo and Palio; and in Rome, Bramante and San Michelle.

XAVIER FLOURET is the owner of Cognac One, LLC, a U.S. national wine importer and a New York, New Jersey wine distributor. He encourages discovery for novices to experienced oenophiles through a wide range of wines focusing on terroir, artisanal, sustainable and organic wineries such as T-Oinos (Greece), Chateau Kefraya (Lebanon), Ventolaio (Italy), Domaine de la Begude (Bandol, France), etc. to iconic crus classés Bordeaux and Hospices de Beaune. He owns Burgundian sparkling wines Rene Briand, known for its purity and authenticity.

DAVID FRIESER is currently manager of McCabes Wine & Spirits, a wine shop located on the Upper East Side of Manhattan. He has been in the wine business for more than 40 years and assisted numerous corporate and individual clients with both wine and spirit selections.

KYUNGMOON KIM discovered early on he had an exceptional palate. After graduating from Culinary Institute of America, Kim immersed himself in the world of wine. Kim has garnered competition accolades. In Seoul, Kim joined the opening team of JUNGSIK, where he spearheaded a much-lauded wine and beverage department, and later returned to New York to open a second JUNGSIK restaurant, managing operations and the beverage program that would garner 2 Michelin stars. In 2016 Kim achieved Master Sommelier Certification by the Court of Master Sommeliers.

DAVID KRAVITZ has more than 30 years of experience in the restaurant industry. Kravitz is corporate beverage director for The Group, overseeing its programs in New York; Chicago; Washington, D.C.; and Miami.

PHILIPPE NEWLIN is a wine professional with more than two decades of experience in importing, distribution, retail and education. He was most recently Fine Wine director and senior Bordeaux buyer for internet retailer Wine.com.

DOMINICK PURNOMO is owner of Dominick Purnomo Restaurant Group and co-founder of FEED ALBANY. He sits on the board of directors for the New York State Restaurant Association, among other appointments.

LUCA MESSANA SANTANDER, a native of Manhattan who moved to Florence, Italy, at a young age, cherishes century-old traditions while embracing innovation. He began his career on his family estate at just 5 years old, taste- testing grapes and olio nuovo. After graduating from International Liceo Machiavelli-Capponi with a dual diploma, he began gaining experience in the wine industry by working in Chile, Italy and Oregon. Upon his return to Italy, he received a degree in Oenology and Viticulture from Universita delle Scienze Agrarie di Pisa. As an oenologist, he moved to France to work at a domaine in Burgundy for a year. Later, he moved to New York to oversee production at a boutique cidery before joining Wölffer Estate Vineyard in August 2022.

DARRIN SIEGFRIED is president emeritus of the Sommelier Society of America. His Park Slope wine shop, Red, White & Bubbly, was named Best in Brooklyn in The New York Times, and his wine bar, Il Gallo Giallo, was called Best in the Hudson Valley.

ERIC WHITE has worked in wine for more than 20 years and has been general manager of THE WINERY NYC since 2008. He is certified with the Wine & Spirit Education Trust program and American Sommelier Association, among other accolades.

PAMELA WITTMANN is the principal of Millisime, Ltd., a public relations and marketing firm specializing in helping foreign wineries enter the U.S. market. She has degrees in oenology and business and worked in wineries and wine sales. She took over the presidency of the Ordre des Compagnons du Beaujolais, Devoir de New York in September 2022 after instigating it 20 years prior with a group of restaurateurs and wine industry executives

WINNERS’ CIRCLE

TOP INTERNATIONAL FIRST CLASS WINES ON THE WING
1. STARLUX Airlines
2. Air France
3. British Airways
4. Qatar Airways

TOP INTERNATIONAL BUSINESS CLASS WINES ON THE WING
1. Qatar Airways
2. United Airlines
3. Brussels Airlines
4. LATAM
5. TIE: American Airlines/British Airways

NORTH AMERICA FIRST CLASS WINES ON THE WING
1. American Airlines
2. JetBlue

TOP VINTAGE AND NON-VINTAGE CHAMPAGNES International First Class
1. Laurent-Perrier Grand Siecle Grande Cuvée (TIE: Air France and British Airways)
2. Bollinger La Grande Année 2014 (STARLUX Airlines)
3. Krug Grand Cuvée 170eme Edition (Qatar Airways)
4. Armand de Brignac Brut Gold (Qatar Airways)

TOP NON-VINTAGE CHAMPAGNES/ SPARKLING INTERNATIONAL BUSINESS CLASS
1. Champagne Gosset Brut Grande Reserve (Qatar Airways)
2. Fratelli Lunelli Ferrari Brut (Italian Franciacorta) (American Airlines)
3. Duval-Leroy Brut (Delta Air Lines)
4. Champagne Billecart-Salmon Brut (Qatar Airways)
5. Monopole Heidsieck Blue Top Brut (United Airlines)

TOP WHITE WINES INTERNATIONAL FIRST CLASS
1. Schloss Gobelsburg, Ried Grub |1 Kamptal (STARLUX Airlines)
2. Grand Vin de Bourgogne Meursault Albert Bichot (Air France)
3. Frederic Emile Alsace Trimbach Riesling 2016 (STARLUX Airlines)
4. Vavasour Papa Awatere Valley New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc 2021 (British Airways)
5. Albert Bichot Domaine Long- Depaquit Chablis Grand Cru Les Blanchots (Qatar Airways)

TOP WHITE WINES INTERNATIONAL BUSINESS CLASS
1. Château de Cruzeau Grand Vin de Bordeaux 2020 (United Airlines)
2. Starmont Vineyards Carneros Chardonnay 2019 (Qatar Airways)
3. Schouwen-Druiveland Rivaner De Kleine Schorre 2022 (KLM Royal Dutch Airlines)
4. Villard Chardonnay Expression 2022 (LATAM)
5. Lievland Chenin Blanc Paarl 2021 (KLM Royal Dutch Airlines)

TOP RED WINES INTERNATIONAL FIRST CLASS
1. Château Bélair-Monange Premier Grand Cru Classé, Saint-Émilion Grand Cru 2014 (STARLUX Airlines)
2. Château La Dominique Grand Cru Classé Saint-Émilion Grand Cru 2016 (Air France)
3. La Rioja Alta Viña Ardanza Reserva 2016 Rioja (British Airways)
4. Silver Oak Alexander Valley Cabernet Sauvignon 2018 (STARLUX Airlines)
5. Syrah Mullineux Swartland 2020 Wine of Origin SA (British Airways)

TOP RED WINES INTERNATIONAL BUSINESS CLASS
1. Château Clement-Pichon Cru Bourgeois Supérieur Haut-Médoc 2018 (Brussels Airlines)
1. Baron de Ley Club Privado Rioja 2020 (KLM Royal Dutch Airlines)
2. Proventus Tr3smano 2019 (Aeromexico)
3. Dona Ermelinda Reserva Portugal (TAP Air Portugal)
4. DV Catena Cabernet Malbec 2021 (LATAM)

BEST CHAMPAGNE/SPARKLING NORTH AMERICA FIRST CLASS
1. Boizel Brut Reserve (American Airlines)
2. Scarpetta Ribolla Gialla Brut 2023 (JetBlue)

BEST WHITE WINE NORTH AMERICA FIRST CLASS
1. Aussieres Chardonnay 2022 (American Airlines)
2. House of Brown California Chardonnay 2022 (Delta Air Lines)
3. Lagar de Proventus Alvarinho (Aeromexico)
4. Jean-Marc Roulot Bourgogne Blanc 2022 (JetBlue)

BEST RED WINE NORTH AMERICA FIRST CLASS
1. Browne Family Vineyards Red Blend 2022 (Alaska Airlines)
2. Jordan Cabernet Sauvignon, Alexander Valley 2019 (Delta Air Lines)
3. Stephane Aviron Beaujolais Village 2022 (JetBlue)
4. Ste. Chapelle Open Air Red Wine Blend (Alaska Airlines)

BEST ALLIANCE WINES ON THE WING
1. oneworld
2. SkyTeam
3. Star Alliance