Cruising gained popularity in the wake of the COVID-19 pandemic, leading to rapid modernization of ports worldwide to accommodate the increasing number of ship-borne visitors. From remote Pacific islands to ancient Mediterranean marinas, cruise ports are swiftly expanding, upgrading technology, and funding improvements to connecting airports and highways.
Cruise port modernization brings both benefits and challenges to port communities. Increased tourism creates jobs in hospitality and administrative sectors, but it often comes at the cost of traditional professions such as fishing and boat-building. While modernized ports become more accessible for people with disabilities, unchecked port traffic can cause environmental damage and degrade once-pristine coastlines. Tourism infuses port cities with cosmopolitan flair, but it can also lead to a rise in vice and unruly behavior among visitors. However, responsible port development — balancing economic growth with commitments to environmental sustainability and cultural preservation — can make modernization a net benefit for both locals and tourists.
When Arie Pagaka, a tour leader for SeaTrek Sailing Adventures, began his career on cruise ships in the late 1990s, his hometown of Labuan Bajo was a sleepy fishing village on the Indonesian island of Flores. Today, Labuan Bajo is one of Indonesia’s busiest ports, second only to Bali in cruise passenger volume.
“When I started my career at sea, Europeans and Americans were a novelty in Labuan Bajo,” Pagaka shared. “Nowadays, local kids speak English as fluently as Bahasa, and Labuan Bajo has 5-star hotels and fine dining.”
On SeaTrek cruises, Pagaka frequently visits ports untouched by modernization on remote islands like Alor, Maluccos and Raja
Ampat. “Life is simple and slow on Indonesia’s remote islands. Men work as fishermen, and women spend the day weaving ikat,” Pagaka explained, referring to a brightly colored textile traditional to eastern Indonesia. “It might seem romantic from an outsider’s perspective, but it’s a hard life.”
Pagaka views Labuan Bajo’s port modernization as a mixed blessing but ultimately a net positive for his community. He acknowledged the losses: “The tight-knit community of the fishing village is gone forever, and very few youngsters want to stay in Labuan Bajo.” Boys no longer aspire to become fishermen like their fathers and grandfathers; instead, they dream of moving to Jakarta or even Europe or the United States.
Despite these drawbacks, the benefits of modernization prevail. “Locals in Labuan Bajo now have access to modern health care and comforts, and they are connected to the world through the internet and the airport,” Pagaka said. “Overall, we have a higher standard of living now.” To counteract the cultural erosion caused by cruise port development, he suggested allocating a portion of tourism taxes to preserve Florenese traditions like weaving, music and dance.
Six thousand miles from Labuan Bajo, the Croatian island of Dugi Otok has undergone a similar transformation. When Valerie Steffe moved to Dugi Otok from the Croatian mainland in 2021 to work as a tour guide, the island’s languid rhythms had changed little since the days when ancient Romans and Venetians harvested salt there. With its recently renovated cruise port, Dugi Otok is now quickly becoming a popular Mediterranean playground.
“Even in the span of a year, the harbor renovations have supercharged tourism in Dugi Otok,” Steffe said, referring to the €12 million project completed in 2023 to modernize the port of Sali, Dugi Otok’s largest village. “Our harbor is too shallow for large cruise ships, but the new infrastructure allows tenders to bring in tourists from cruise ships anchored outside Zadar,” she explained, referring to the ancient city a few miles from Dugi Otok.
Like Pagaka, Steffe acknowledged the harbor upgrades have brought both positive and negative changes but sees the overall impact as beneficial. The roads and beaches of Dugi Otok might be more crowded now, but the newfound conveniences outweigh the annoyances of congestion. “We now have a modern supermarket and excellent restaurants in Sali. Life is easier and more exciting thanks to the boosted tourism.” Steffe also noted the harbor upgrades improved roads and bus services on Dugi Otok as well as created new jobs in resorts and hotels.
Enhanced accommodations for disabled travelers are a clear-cut benefit of cruise port modernization. Imali Chislett, founder, Disabilities At Sea, a consultancy working with ports and cruise lines, recalled the ordeal of navigating antiquated ports as a
wheelchair user. “I have been to cruise ports in major cities that look like messy construction sites,” Chislett said. “Cargo containers in the middle of paths. Forklifts whizzing by. It’s like trying to navigate Legoland in a wheelchair.” Fortunately, most modern port designers consider the needs of disabled travelers, and Chislett hopes her organization’s advocacy will increase this trend. Chislett applauded La Spezia, Italy, as a shining example of how modern ports can best accommodate disabled travelers.
“The port of La Spezia has clear walkways, English-speaking employees on hand, and elevators and shuttles designed for wheelchairs,” Chislett said. “La Spezia is exemplary not only for wheelchair users but for the visually impaired and neurodivergent as well.” Excessive noise often causes extreme discomfort for travelers with autism, and Chislett praised La Spezia for maintaining a relatively serene cruise port.
As with most discussions about modernization, the development of cruise ports is fraught with complexity and nuance. Cruise port modernization brings economic benefits and improved standards of living for local communities, but these gains come with the costs of congestion, environmental degradation and the extinction of traditional livelihoods. Modernized cruise ports are more accessible for all types of travelers, but the influx of cosmopolitan tourists threatens the survival of traditional cultures.
Ultimately, responsible and thoughtful cruise port development, guided by the input of community leaders, is the way forward. Steffe and Pagaka both emphasize developers must ensure port modernization focuses not only on expansion, efficiency and technological upgrades but also on environmental and cultural integrity. Collaborating with community pillars like Pagaka and Steffe, as well as experts like Chislett, will prove crucial in the endeavor to responsibly modernize ports.
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