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Córdoba Fascinates with a Mix of Colonial Charm and Vibrant Modernity

by Gregory D. McCluney

Feb 4, 2024

PHOTO: © DIEGO GRANDI | DREAMSTIME .COM

Latin America / Argentina

In the shadow of the towering Andes, miles northwest of Buenos Aires, Argentina’s second-largest city in the province of the same name offers visitors a rare combination of old and new coexist- ing in harmony.

Córdoba, founded in 1573 by Spanish Jesuits, seems to have avoided the usual conflicts of development versus preservation. As this city approaches 1.5 million inhabitants, Córdoba is in some ways an island, with fertile plains in all directions. Business interests include agribusiness and light industry followed by technology.

City neighborhoods are largely maintained in colonial architecture. Gauchos, Argentina’s cowboys, still ride just outside the city with traditions little changed since the days of Spanish rule. That’s not to say time stands still in Córdoba, but it seems in no big hurry to race toward modern designs as in many South American cities.

This university town boasts six colleges and universities and a lively social and bar scene. Cultural sites and museums are well worth visiting, especially Iglesia Catedral, which required more than 200 years to complete. Outdoors, the moderate four-season climate allows for outdoor adventures and treks almost year-round. (Remember, seasons are reversed in South America.)

Traveling to Córdoba proves a bargain by almost any measure, with a favorable exchange rate to the U.S. dollar. Most visitors fly to and from Ingeniero Aeronáutico Ambrosio L.V. Taravella International Airport, most with worldwide connections through Buenos Aires. Upon arrival, transportation by taxi to the city and business centers, many around Plaza San Martin, is convenient and reasonable. (There is also bus service for those on a budget, but trip times average almost an hour.) Within the city, electric trams can aid in short hops. There is little reason to rent a car unless you plan to travel on from the city, perhaps to Mendoza and the high wine country and across the Andes into Chile.

Modern hotels match almost any budget. For those in town to impress, Windsor Hotel remains a popular choice, with its signature restaurant Sibaris, one of the best in the city, offering formal, fine-dining service. For those who wish to make an impression on their business guests, Azur Real Hotel Boutique and Spa or King David Flat Hotel stand out, as does Quorum Córdoba Hotel with its luxe, first-class pool service. If your plans include shopping, consider staying at the 4-star Amérian Executive Córdoba Hotel with an upscale shopping center just across the street. If you prefer apartment-style hostelry with suites, a spa and room for entertaining, Sol de Piedra Apart, Suites & Spa proves a favorite among business travelers.

Argentinians dine much later than busi- ness diners in the United States, so don’t count on an early business dinner. An 8 p.m. meeting time is more likely to end up at 9 p.m. or later, with a stroll after dinner and tour of the bars and clubs often completing the evening. Picking the right restaurant usually takes into consideration your guests’ favorites along with proximity to your hotel. Popular restaurants for business dinners and entertainment are plentiful all around the city center. Most serve main courses of local meats and seafood with several sides and sauces. Restaurants of note for business dinners include San Honorato, Al-Malek, Casa Papagayo and Betos. You’ll find casual dining everywhere in Córdoba; the front desk can recommend several nearby.

If you must work later or catch an early flight, consider lunch rather than dinner. Lunches can be two to three hours long in the best restaurants, and a siesta before returning to work is common.

For a bit of adventure between meetings, the climate is conducive to many activities, including a visit to a working gaucho ranch, hiking and trekking, and horseback riding. Numerous tours take guests around the city sights, with excellent views of the Suquía River, or choose a daytrip with an English-speaking guide for tastings and lunch at area wineries.

For history buffs, Córdoba offers several worthy museums and colonial churches to visit, including El Museo Histórico Provincial, housed in a magnificent colonial mansion worth the stop on its own. Other popular visits include Museo Municipal de Bellas Artes and El Museo Histórico de la Universidad, located at the campus.

Despite your focus on your business objectives, try to make time to take in all the beauty and culture of Córdoba, also known as the City of the Bells.

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