What goes up, must come down. That familiar folk saying is proving true in Boston, where the long-awaited completion of the Central Artery/Tunnel Project, aka the Big Dig, is finally on the horizon. Hailed as a visionary innovation when it was conceived in the mid-20th century, the elevated roadway, or Central Artery, that cut a swath through downtown Boston when it was
constructed in the 1950s is being replaced by an underground tunnel.

That Was Then

A key component in a comprehensive plan to ease traffic congestion in and around Boston in the middle of the last century, the Central Artery was designed to handle a volume of just 75,000 cars a day. Recent traffic counts peg the number of cars passing over the Central Artery at more than 200,000. Clearly, the mammoth structure that’s loomed over downtown Boston for five decades was well on its way to obsolescence almost as soon as it opened to traffic.

The unfortunate fate of the Central Artery, though, was not entirely the fault of its planners. The road through and over the city of Boston was intended to be part of a tandem system. The second component, dubbed the Inner Belt, was supposed to route traffic around Boston, while the Central Artery was meant to handle only those vehicles traveling to destinations within city limits. The Inner Belt, however, met its demise when residents of neighborhoods along its planned route, having witnessed the construction of the Central Artery and its startling impact on Boston’s North End, Financial District, Waterfront and Chinatown neighborhoods (more than 1,000 structures were demolished and more than 20,000 residents were displaced), vehemently opposed the planned roadway. Their objections were so strong, construction of the Inner Belt was eventually canceled, leaving only the ungainly steel and concrete Central Artery to handle the
full volume of traffic.

This Is Now

Fast forward half a century and Bostonians are eagerly anticipating the completion of the Big Dig. While most of us have done our share of complaining about the noise and disruption caused by two decades of ongoing construction, by and large we’re looking forward to the day when the
remaining vestiges of the Central Artery come down for good-and the city’s North End and Waterfront are reunited with Downtown and beyond.

To fully grasp the scope of Boston’s Central Artery/Tunnel Project, it helps to compare it with other large-scale development projects. Replacing the six-lane elevated highway with an eight-to-10-lane underground expressway directly beneath the existing road, completing surface improvements and development, building a new harbor tunnel and constructing a 10-lane, cable-stayed bridge-the widest cable-stayed bridge in the world and the first in the United States with an asymmetrical, hybrid design-is on scale with the building of the Panama Canal, English
Channel Tunnel and Alaska Pipeline. At a cost of $14.7 billion, it’s one of the largest, most technically difficult and environmentally challenging infrastructure projects ever undertaken in the United States.

Now that most of the underground infrastructure is in place, it’s finally time to look at what’s planned for the surface. Cross streets between Downtown and the North End and Waterfront, severed or disrupted when the Central Artery was constructed, will be reconnected, further enhancing Boston’s reputation as a “walking city.” Acres upon acres of downtown landscape, neglected and left to wither in the shadow of the unsightly steel girders that supported the Central Artery, will see new life in the form of sun-drenched parks and walking paths.

Key components of the plan include the HarborWalk, a system of boardwalks and granite sidewalks
stretching from East Boston through Charlestown, the North End, Downtown, South Boston and Dorchester. While the bulk of the network will be created by individual property owners along the designated coastal area, part of the Big Dig initiat ive involves building 3,000 feet of harbor walkways on both sides of Boston’s Fort Point Channel. The plan will revitalize an area long shrouded from the general public.

When the last vestiges of the Central Artery come down, Boston’s Fort Hill neighborhood and Rowes Wharf will be bathed in sunshine. The Dewey Square area in and around South Station (Amtrak’s Boston hub) may become home to a domed, year-round botanical garden proposed by the Massachusetts Horticulture Society. Landscaped pedestrian walkways will connect Quincy Market and Christopher Columbus Park on the waterfront. A yet-to-be-determined cultural or education facility may replace the current Broad Street Extension. A parcel adjacent to the subway’s Haymarket Station is being eyed as the site for a new history museum. Spearheaded by the Boston Museum Project, the proposed $80 million project has secured $1.5 million in planning funds and has the support of the National Park Service.

What the Future Holds

Benefiting from reconfiguration related to the Big Dig, Boston’s Seaport District has entered an era of growth and change. The traditional center of the city’s maritime industry is undergoing revitalization in the form of the investment in and development of office buildings, retail space, condominiums and two hotels. The development that will likely impact the area the most, though, is the construction of the new Boston Convention and Exhibition Center. Slated to host its first event this July, the convention complex will be the largest in the Northeast. With more than 500,000 square feet of contiguous exhibition space, 160,000 square feet of meeting space, 86 meeting rooms and a dramatic 41,000-square-foot ballroom with an adjacent 1,200-room
hotel, the Boston Convention and Exhibition Center is expected to create more than 3,000 permanent jobs.

The payoff? Money spent in the city by conventioneers, who tend to stay longer and spend
more than leisure travelers. Studies suggest a typical conventioneer spends approximately $342 a day during a 3.5-day stay. According to industry standards, that means a large trade show can earn a city more than $1 million per day.

The test comes this summer, when 35,000 visitors descend on Boston to attend the four-day Democratic National Convention. Locally, tourism and public officials are looking forward to
showcasing Boston in 2004, and the timing couldn’t be better. The Big Dig will be done and it’s a prime opportunity to shine the light on the new convention center; new hotels; new meeting, sports, medical and research facilities; new airport terminals; improved public transportation; and new parks and recreational areas.

The internationally televised event is expected to elevate Boston to new heights as a player in the convention and tourism business.

Where to Stay

Boston hotels range from ultra-chic five-star properties to economy motels to cozy inns. The classic Ritz-Carlton, Boston stands just blocks from its newer, flashier counterpart, Ritz-Carlton, Boston Common. The Fairmont Copley Plaza-Boston’s true grande dame-presides over Copley Square, while the Boston Harbor Hotel stands proudly on the city’s waterfront. Smaller hotels, inns and B&Bs are scattered throughout the city. The selection is seemingly endless. Here are a few suggestions.

Fairmont Copley Plaza
A bastion of sophistication and elegance since its gala opening in 1912, Boston’s Fairmont Copley Plaza is a mainstay in a city that treasures tradition and culture. Its sweeping, bow-shaped facade overlooks Boston’s architectural gems, including Trinity Church, the Boston Public Library and the Hancock Tower. Its Back Bay location is convenient to historic Beacon Hill,
Copley Place, the boutiques of Newbury Street and the Hynes Convention Center. Newly renovated guestrooms complement the hotel’s heritage while offering contemporary conveniences, including high-speed Internet connections. In April, Fairmont Copley Plaza introduces executive accommodations in its new Fairmont Gold Floor.
Fairmont Copley Plaza
138 St. James Ave., Boston, MA 02116
tel 617 267 5300, fax 617 267 7668, www.fairmon t.com

Ritz-Carlton,Boston
The Ritz-Carlton, Boston celebrated its 75th anniversary in 2002 with a major restoration designed to return the landmark to its early 20th century grandeur. The oldest Ritz-Carlton hotel in continuous operation in the United States, the vintage property stands at the foot of fashionable Newbury Street, and overlooking Boston’s Public Garden in the heart of the Back Bay. Guest amenities include 24-hour room service, complimentary overnight shoeshine and butlers for the bath, technology and fireplace.
The Ritz-Carlton, Boston
15 Arlington St., Boston, MA 02116
tel 617 536 5700, fax 617 536 1335, www.ritzcarlton.com

XV Beacon
Standing tall among some of Boston’s most beautiful homes on Beacon Hill, this 1903 Beaux Arts mansion is a home-away-from-home for executive business travelers. Behind a stately facade of limestone, cast iron and Roman brick, guests are ensconced in an atmosphere of quiet elegance. Each floor houses just seven guestrooms, including either a two-room suite or adjoining rooms that can be configured to form a two-room suite. All guestrooms feature working gas fireplaces, and the use of the hotel’s complimentary in-town chauffeured Mercedes car service is available to all guests.
XV Beacon
15 Beacon St., Boston, MA 02108
tel 617 670 1500, fax 617 670 2525, www.xvbeacon.com

Boston Harbor Hotel
If you’re arriving at Boston’s Logan International Airport, the Boston Harbor Hotel is a quick water-shuttle ride across the harbor. The elegant hotel is a short walk from downtown shopping, the Financial District and the Italian enclave in the North End. Most of the rooms in this harborfront hotel offer sweeping water views. Boston Harbor Hotel’s 230 guestrooms include 24 one-bedroom suites. The adjacent Rowes Wharf Marina offers docking privileges for hotel guests arriving by boat.
Boston Harbor Hotel
70 Rowes Wharf, Boston, MA 02110
tel 617 439 7000, fax 617 330 9450, www.bhh.com

Where to Eat

From beer and nachos to fine wine and gourmet cuisine, the options are endless when it comes to dining in Boston. While known for its seafood, Boston is also home to world-class chefs-Todd English, Jasper White and Lydia Shire are local legends-and its vibrant multicultural community lends an international flair.

Azure
Relax in the warm glow of Azure’s historic dining room, where you’ll enjoy contemporary American cuisine with a sophisticated edge and an emphasis on fresh seafood. Nationally recognized chef Robert Fathman, a featured chef in the James Beard Foundation’s Discovery Series, is at the helm in the kitchen.
Azure at The Lenox Hotel
65 Exeter St., Boston, MA 02116
tel 617 933 4800, fax 617 266 7905
www.azureboston.com

Elephant Walk
A Boston institution since 1991, The Elephant Walk is hailed for its award-winning Cambodian and French cuisine. It’s perennially rated one of Boston’s “Most Popular Restaurants” by the Zagat Survey.
Elephant Walk
900 Beacon St., Boston, MA 02215
tel 617 247 1500, fax 617 247 2887
www.elephantwalk.com

Grill 23 & Bar
Crisp service and an outstanding wine list complement a menu featuring prime dry-aged beef and fresh seafood. Grill 23’s décor, featuring polished brass and dark wood, creates an atmosphere that’s both intimate and powerful.
Grill 23 & Bar
161 Berkeley St., Boston, MA 02116
tel 617 542 2255, fax 617 542 5114, www.grill23.com

Maggiano’s Little Italy
Specializing in old-world Italian, Maggiano’s offers a comprehensive menu. Portions are huge. Specialties are homemade pastas, signature salads, prime steaks, fresh fish and provimi veal.
Maggiano’s Little Italy
4 Columbus Ave., Boston, MA 02116
tel 617 542 3456, fax 617-542 9988
www.maggianos.com

Sonsie
An elegant, yet informal, Newbury Street bistro, Sonsie features an open-air streetside café with coffee bar and French salon, in addition to its Red Room cocktail lounge. On warm days-spring, summer and fall-grab a sidewalk table and watch the world go by.
Sonsie
327 Newbury St., Boston, MA 02115
tel 617-351-2500, fax 617 351 2565

Getting Around

One of Boston’s better-known nicknames is “America’s Walking City.” And with good reason. It’s a pretty easy walk from the Waterfront to Back Bay. How long would it take to drive the same distance? That all depends on the time of day and day of the week. Let’s just say you’re probably better off walking and leave it at that. That said, Boston’s public transportation system-the oldest in the country-is relatively easy to navigate. For route and fare information,
visit www.mbta.com. Located two miles from downtown Bost on, Logan International Airport is served by most major national and international air carriers. Airport information is available at www.massport.com. In addition, two regional airports serve the Boston area. Both are within an hour’s drive of the city. Located in Warwick, R.I., just a few miles south of Providence, TF Green Airport (www.pvdairport.com) is just a stone’s throw from I-95 and easy access to Boston.
Located in Manchester, N.H., Manchester Airport (www.flymanchester.com) is just off I-93 north
of the city, resulting in easy transfers to and from Boston. In addition, Amtrak (www.amtrak)
connects Boston to the rest of the country by rail via connections at South Station, Back Bay Station and a suburban station at Route 128 in Westwood.