I rarely get the opportunity to combine my love of history with my love of food.
Mind you, I’m not a professional foodie. In fact, I’m not sure I even qualify for amateur status. But as a history buff, I truly enjoy waltzing around a popular restaurant that has a bit of nostalgia and a great story of family behind it. Columbia Restaurant is such an establishment.
Founded in 1905, the original location is in Ybor City, Florida (although my dining experience took place in St. Armand’s Circle in Sarasota, Florida). For a whopping 115 years, this family-owned restaurant group has served patrons across seven locations. On the website, Columbia Restaurant touts itself as “Florida’s Oldest Restaurant” and the “Largest Spanish Restaurant in the World.”
Five generations served within Columbia, handing down their authentic Spanish/Cuban recipes with the occasional tweak here or there. While most of the menu offers a variety of dishes, I had a friend who decided we were going all-in: drinks, salad, main course and dessert. And, for the sake of history, I obliged.
We began with the highly recommended 1905 Salad. This legendary salad, named for the year the restaurant was founded, is a nod to the immigrants of Cigar City (near the original location). Julienne baked ham, Swiss cheese, iceberg lettuce, tomatos, olives, Romano cheese, Worcestershire sauce and garlic dressing earned marks with USA Today as one of its “Top 10 Places to Make a Salad Out of a Meal.” And they aren’t joking. The 1905 Salad could easily be its own meal. It’s hearty, and a heavy hand with the garlic dressing makes it extra yummy.
For dinner my friend chose the Palomilla, a marinated top sirloin, thinly cut, grilled and topped with mojo crudo (chopped onion, parsley and lime juice). I had the Mahi-Mahi “Cayo Hueso” — a grilled, boneless filet marinated in citrus juices. We both had a side of grilled plantanos (which are phenomenal), and my side of yucca was the surprise delight of the meal.
Both of us also enjoyed the red sangria, or Sangria Tinto, the Cabernet Sauvignon-based wine with Torres Brandy specifically produced to honor the 115th anniversary of the restaurant. It was particularly refreshing on that hot and humid Florida evening.
And while we felt slightly guilty for not ordering the flan for dessert (after all, the recipe dates back to 1935 from great-grandmother Carmen Hernandez), my palate was poised and positioned to partake in an order of Churros Tres Amigos. And they certainly didn’t disappoint, either.
Dusted with cinnamon sugar and served with three sauces, we enjoyed our churros dipped in rich, warm chocolate; caramel; and guava (yes, guava!). The chocolate is, of course, lovely … the caramel is light and familiar, and the guava … may I say, churros with guava sauce is an unanticipated treat all its own!
And when the meal was through, I took some time wandering around the restaurant, reading the captions beneath the old photos from the 1940s and 1950s. I noticed the statues, the colorful abundance of Spanish tile and the swift way in which the wait staff bustles about.
There’s almost always a wait at Columbia, so I would highly suggest reservations. And if you choose to come, remember: This is not an American restaurant that creates Spanish/Cuban food, this IS Spanish/Cuban food. The flavors are 100 percent authentic, and the food does not bend in favor of American taste buds just to make a buck.
The good news is, my friend doesn’t have much of a sweet tooth. Which means she bends for mine. And I enjoyed all the churros by myself.
— Carrie Cox, account executive
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