As I’ve indicated in recent blogs, my husband and I packed a lot of sightseeing and activities into our recent trip to New Orleans. Harry’s brother, John, provided us with a great overview of many parts of the city, whetting our appetite to return and delve into them more fully with more time to explore.

We rented a vehicle for our stay, and one day we hit a few different neighborhoods that provided distinctive and genuine portraits of this amazing city. We followed the route of the St. Charles Streetcar from Canal Street in the city’s core out to the Garden District, several square blocks of lovely 19th-century mansions interspersed with smaller homes, some in the shotgun style. While one can pay for an organized tour to see the area (and even get inside one of the homes), there are several self-guided tours to be found online or in the AAA guidebook.

Because it was a chilly, breezy midweek day, we actually were able to find a parking spot not far from Lafayette Cemetery No. 1, one of New Orleans’ famous “cities of the dead” and listed on the National Register of Historic Places in 1972.   Established in 1833 by what was then the city of Lafayette, the block-square site features almost 500 wall vaults; 1,000 family tombs; and more than 7,000 souls interred. To make the most use of limited space and to address issues related to the high water table and flooding, above-ground mausoleums and vaults are de rigueur here. We wandered the alleys, noting the dates on the tombstones, each offering a tiny glimpse into the lives of those buried there. Many vaults housed several generations of a single family, while a few were dedicated to firefighters or other groups.   Because our time was limited, we didn’t take up the offer of a few guides at the cemetery gates to provide us with information and history on a tour, but from the snippets I overheard, it would be well worth it to do so.

We drove up and down the streets of the district (too cold to walk!), referring to our guidebook and admiring the lovely homes. I’d definitely like to return on a warmer day to be able to take everything in from the sidewalks.

Next we headed to the Lower Ninth Ward, the easternmost part of the city, sitting between the Mississippi River and Lake Pontchartrain. Many of us carry images of the devastation of this area as a result of Hurricane Katrina in 2005, and I was curious to see what had come of the promises and efforts to rebuild and restore the area. My brother-in-law noted that when he had last passed through about five years ago, there were still many lots piled with debris and many empty, damaged, abandoned buildings. He was pleased that we saw little of that on our drive. We passed by the Musicians’ Village in the Upper Ninth, conceived by Harry Connick, Jr. and Branford Marsalis, with brightly painted homes and a large Center for Music at its heart. In the Lower Ninth there are still many empty lots but also lots of newly built and rebuilt homes, some elevated high above the ground. Bright colors abound, and on main thoroughfares a mix of businesses — stores, restaurants, services — indicate this community remains committed to this place.

This day provided a look into New Orleans’ past, its present and a glimpse into the future, quite a journey for such a short span!

— Patty Vanikiotis, associate editor/copy editor