One of the features I loved most about every city and town we visited during our trip to Spain and Portugal was the mercados. A few, like Madrid’s Mercado de San Miguel, were modernized and updated and drew throngs of tourists more than the everyday citizen shopper. What I most enjoyed, though, were the large neighborhood markets, often housed in cavernous old buildings with nary a decorative element in sight. Their appeal lay in the enormous variety of foodstuffs and beverages on display, with occasional stalls offering household goods or perhaps some artisan’s work.
On our second day in Santiago de Compostela, after a casual morning spent poking into churches and shops in the old town area around the cathedral, we headed uphill to the city’s main mercado, the Mercado de Abastos. It consists of long stone-block galleries lined on either side with vendors offering wonders for all the senses. Outside, along the edges of the small plazas between the buildings, are more informal, temporary stalls where vegetable and flower sellers offer their wares.
The butchers’ shops drew our attention with their long strings of sausages, bone-in jamón ibérico (hoof included) hanging from hooks and every edible part of the pig you could imagine (and some you probably hadn’t!).
We spent quite a bit of time at one of the cheesemongers as she generously handed out samples of a number of cheeses. With her limited English and our virtually nonexistent Spanish, through a bit of pantomime and animal sounds we nevertheless managed to understand we were tasting sheep, cow or goat cheeses; where they came from; and how long they’d been aged. It was a delightful experience, and we came away with several options for our picnic lunch later.
We also checked out the poultry stall and imagined what a great stock one could make from a whole fresh bird.
We also drooled over the amazing assortment of shellfish and seafood chilling on ice. Oh, to have such delights close at hand at home!
We spent more than an hour meandering up and down the corridors, gathering up fruit, some enormous sweet red peppers, cheese, bread and sausages for lunch. Our next stop: the Parque de la Alameda, a large, lovely park offering mighty, old trees shading long pathways, sculptures, flower gardens and fountains. Its origins go back to the mid-16th century, when land was donated to the city for the purposes of a garden to be enjoyed by all . . . and still today residents see it as an outdoor living space, well-loved and -used.
We made our way down the wide Lions Walk, which presented many postcard-worthy views of the Cathedral of Santiago de Compostela framed by the trees. We found a bench nearby the grand old “Lovers’ Eucalyptus,” a monumentally enormous tree (note the people near its trunk in the picture), and settled down to enjoy our lunch, the views and a little people-watching. After several very busy days, we enjoyed this slower-paced afternoon and the cool green spaces around us.
— Patty Vanikiotis, associate editor/copy editor
Read This Next
Introducing
FX Excursions
FX Excursions offers the chance for once-in-a-lifetime experiences in destinations around the world.
#globility
Insta FeedDaily
Nov 22, 2024Choose Lompoc on California’s Central Coast for Outdoor-Focused Fun
If you’re in weather denial mode and resisting the urge to switch your closet over to sweaters and snow boots, keep summer going for a little longer in Lompoc, California.
Sponsored Content
Explore Egypt on the Most Extraordinary Tour Ever
Picture this: You’re standing in front of the Great Pyramid, the last of the Seven Wonders of the Ancient World, in complete silence, with no crowds in sight. As you step inside, your guide leads you to hidden chambers inaccessible to other tourists. Here, you’re granted a rare chance to delve into the deepest mysteries of ancient Egypt.
Daily
Nov 22, 2024Try This New Sea-to-Table Experience at Four Seasons Resort Punta Mita
Four Seasons Resort Punta Mita, the oceanfront property on the pristine coast of Mexico’s Riviera Nayarit, just launched a new Sea to Table program in partnership with SpearMex, the region’s premier sea exploration experts. The new programming features a hands-on experience and ocean-to-table culinary journey combining sustainable fishing practices with personalized gastronomic techniques lead by Executive Chef Jorge González.
Daily
Nov 22, 2024Waldorf Astoria Residences New York Announces Partnership with Bang & Olufsen
Waldorf Astoria Residences New York recently announced a partnership with Bang & Olufsen. The contemporary residences sit atop the legendary hotel, currently nearing the end of its expansive restoration.
Sponsored Content
Discover the Pristine Beauty of the Sporades Islands
Nestled in the northwest Aegean Sea, the Sporades Islands are a hidden gem of Greece, offering breathtaking natural beauty and unique experiences for every traveler. Comprised of four main islands — Skiathos, Skopelos, Alonissos and Skyros — this island cluster is renowned for its lush pine forests, crystal-clear waters and idyllic beaches.
Daily
Nov 21, 2024Hotel Saint Augustine to Open in Houston’s Museum District Neighborhood
Hotel Saint Augustine, expected to softly open in Houston this December, is a design-savvy boutique hotel from Austin-based hospitality group Bunkhouse. The hotel will officially debut January 2025.
5 Can’t-Miss Black Friday, Cyber Monday Hotel Deals
Daily
Nov 21, 2024eFlyer Reviews
Nov 20, 2024Château des Fleurs Review
Just a short block from the Champs Elysées, flower-bedecked window boxes grace the corner and clearly identify Château des Fleurs. This 37-room boutique hotel is one of Vivre-LMB’s five small hotels in Paris owned by Olivier Bertrand and his sisters and affiliated with Small Luxury Hotels of the World.
Sponsored Content
Experience Next-Level Travel with Condor Airlines’ New A330neo Fleet
Condor Airlines completely renewed its long-haul fleet, featuring its new Airbus A330neo. Designed to elevate your travel experience, the A330neo is equipped with cutting-edge technology and offers unrivaled comfort, ensuring an exceptional journey for every passenger. With its striking signature striped livery, the A330neo not only promises a memorable flight but also enhances the start of your vacation from the moment you step aboard.
eFlyer Deals
Nov 20, 20242 Miami Hotels Go Big for Black Friday, Cyber Monday
Two Miami hotels entice travelers this season to take advantage of some special offers. Cadillac Hotel & Beach Club, Autograph Collection, in the heart of Mid-Beach, offers up to 40 percent off the best available rate when booked by Dec. 30 for stays through Dec. 30, 2025. Book this offer.
ShareThis