Views from Sheep’s Head Peninsula, County Cork

While Ireland’s cities — Cork, Dublin, Galway, Waterford, etc. — all have their own charming character, to really enjoy an authentic Irish experience you need to head to the countryside, particularly to the southernmost corner of County Cork.

On our recent trip to Ireland we ventured outside of Cork City and its surrounding towns to the coastal village of Kilcrohane, where my fiancé’s grandfather’s family is from. The village is known for its beautiful, rugged coastline and breathtaking views. Travelers from Ireland and abroad come for the world-famous Sheep’s Head Way walking routes along the tops of the town’s cliffs.

Driving into Kilcrohane is an experience in and of itself, with extremely narrow, winding and rocky roads. When we arrived we made a quick stop in Eileen’s Bar, one of two pubs in Kilcrohane. The cozy pub is classic Ireland with stone floors, burning fireplaces, low ceilings and customer service that feels more like you’re at home than at a bar. It had just opened when we arrived and doesn’t always serve food, but the owner whipped up sandwiches for us simply because we looked tired and hungry. We returned later that night, and it was difficult to leave the good drinks, great traditional live music and even better company.

We stayed at the Bridge View House, a charming bed and breakfast in the village. When we first walked into the main house, we were welcomed by smiling owners into a cozy living room with a fireplace. The quaint B&B was quiet and comfortable, and the owners were exceptionally personable and accommodating. The owner took our dinner order upon arrival — even though it was only 11 a.m. — so he could run to the butcher. The freshness of our meal was unmistakable. We enjoyed family-style meals that were on par with some of the best restaurants in which I’ve eaten.

During our stay we journeyed out to Sheep’s Head Way and walked the trails around the cliffs — an unforgettable experience. While it is sometimes considered a hike, it is relatively manageable with only a couple points that require some scrambling. The views of the surrounding cliffs, mountains and Bantry and Dunmanus bays were overwhelmingly beautiful. The full walking route takes a couple hours, but shorter options are available.

Kilcrohane truly is an unspoiled Irish gem. While the village features only a handful of bars, restaurants, coffee shops, one school, a church and a gas station that also functions as a post office, it also features one wonderful community of people, a rich sense of culture and unparalleled natural beauty (and in keeping with its namesake, plenty of adorable sheep).

— Nicole Quasté, assistant editor