FX Excursions

FX Excursions offers the chance for once-in-a-lifetime experiences in destinations around the world.

Culinary Backstreets Tour of Lisbon

by Patricia Vanikiotis

Feb 9, 2020

Just as we had in Porto, we chose to take a guided walking tour of Lisbon on our first full day in the city. This time we opted to sign up for a Culinary Backstreets tour. Though more expensive than a typical city walking tour, this one included everything we would eat and drink on a five-and-a-half-hour tour and promised to provide in-depth and locally focused insights into the food culture of Lisbon. Our tour, Lisbon Awakens: A Culinary Crossroads, Reborn, would begin in the Jardim do Estrela and lead us throughout the neighborhood of Campo de Ourique to nearly a dozen different stops. More than just a foodie tour, it would turn out also to be part history lesson, part geography lesson and a cultural eye-opener. An added bonus: We enjoyed learning a little about modern life in Lisbon and how the city has changed in just the past 10 years through the eyes of our guide while also sharing travel stories with fellow world travelers in our small group of seven.

Just getting to the start of the tour involved an iconic Lisbon experience as we boarded the No. 28 tram from the Chiado neighborhood, home of our beautiful two-bedroom apartment. These genuine antiques rattle along narrow streets, laboring up steep hills and descending with nails-on-chalkboard screeches of what sounds like a metal-on-metal braking system. Efficient as well as charmingly anachronistic, from morning to night they are crowded with tourists and locals alike as they circle the city. Just steps off the tram we met Angela, our guide (a Brazilian native who has lived in Lisbon for over 10 years and speaks excellent English), inside the Estrela Gardens, where she steered us to tables outside a coffee stand, ordered up drinks for us all and offered us a sampling of local pastries she’d purchased from a nearby bakery.

She began by asking for a volunteer to sketch a rough map of the world as we sipped and chewed, and figuring my work experience made me as qualified as anyone, I did so. From this, Angela began a brief tour of the globe, following the explorations and voyages of Portuguese navigators. She linked these travels to the lands they touched and the commodities from each which made their way back to Portugal and into the national cuisine. Throughout the rest of the day, each stop would introduce us to another aspect of that food and another link in the chain connecting the past to the present, far-flung lands to tiny family-run restaurants in city neighborhoods.

One of our first stops was at a tiny corner market whose octogenarian owner carried on a business started by his family. Lisbon, Portugal   Here we sampled ginjinha, a Portuguese sour-cherry liqueur served with a cherry in the bottom of the glass. From there we visited one of the city’s best food markets, the Mercado de Campo de Ourique. Quieter and not as famous at the Time Out Mercado da Ribeira, it nevertheless features vendors offering everything from fresh seafood, Lisbon, Portugal  sardines Lisbon, Portugal and produce to fine wines and chocolate. Lisbon, Portugal My only complaint is that we really didn’t have a lot of time to shop.

A family-owned restaurant provided us a family-style lunch which included several traditional Portuguese dishes featuring legumes, octopus, chickpeas and, of course, bacalhau (salted cod). We also stopped at the site of an old co-op bakery, Padaria do Povo,  Lisbon, Portugal  which had been at the center of anti-government resistance during the dictatorship and now houses a bar and restaurant specializing in Indian food (think the connection with Goa, a Portuguese colony in India), where we enjoyed samosas and vindalho (Goan vindaloo) on its grape-trellised patio. Lisbon, Portugal Of course, the day wouldn’t have been complete without a stop at a shop (Pastelaria Aloma) producing the ubiquitous pastéis de nata. All along the way we enjoyed street views and admired the variety of those beautiful tiles. Lisbon, Portugal  Lisbon, Portugal

Our tour began at 10 a.m. and didn’t really wrap up until well after 3:30 that afternoon (and Angela actually offered to escort a few members of our group to a nearby spot she had recommended to them). We learned so much beyond the origins of Portuguese cuisine and really benefitted from Angela’s knowledge of a range of subjects from street art to anthropology and history. I would definitely recommend a Culinary Backstreets tour (offered in at least 14 cities across four continents) as a wonderful way to open up a city to either first-time visitors or those returning there.

— Patricia Vanikiotis, associate editor/copy editor

Introducing

FX Excursions

FX Excursions offers the chance for once-in-a-lifetime experiences in destinations around the world.

Explore Excursions

#globility

Insta Feed
November 2024
Nov 5, 2024

Set Off on a Tour of Extraordinary Mechanical Clocks Around the World

It’s approaching 3 o’clock in the afternoon in Bern. Jutting slightly into view at the end of the uneven stone street in the Swiss city’s historic heart stands a medieval tower adorned with the famous 15th-century “time bell,” Zytglogge. A small gathering forms at the tower’s base as the clock prepares to announce the hour — an event heralded by the crowing of a golden rooster, music and a dance of mechanical figures that include an assortment of jolly bears.

Discover the Pristine Beauty of the Sporades Islands

Nestled in the northwest Aegean Sea, the Sporades Islands are a hidden gem of Greece, offering breathtaking natural beauty and unique experiences for every traveler. Comprised of four main islands — Skiathos, Skopelos, Alonissos and Skyros — this island cluster is renowned for its lush pine forests, crystal-clear waters and idyllic beaches.

Daily
Nov 5, 2024

Arlo Washington DC to Debut Nov. 18

Arlo Hotels is slated to make its Washington, D.C., debut. Arlo Washington DC will open its doors in the heart of downtown D.C. on Nov. 18. Situated in the city’s oldest surviving apartment building, the property boasts 445 rooms, plus a 12-story addition.

Daily
Nov 5, 2024

AlUla Designated as Gulf Cooperation Council’s First-Ever Dark Sky Park

AlUla, Saudi Arabia, is officially the first destination in Gulf Cooperation Council’s to be designated a Dark Sky Park by DarkSky International. This destination continues to commit to minimizing light pollution, preserving and protecting the nighttime environment, and ensuring its skies remain crystal clear for stargazers.

Experience Next-Level Travel with Condor Airlines’ New A330neo Fleet

Condor Airlines completely renewed its long-haul fleet, featuring its new Airbus A330neo. Designed to elevate your travel experience, the A330neo is equipped with cutting-edge technology and offers unrivaled comfort, ensuring an exceptional journey for every passenger. With its striking signature striped livery, the A330neo not only promises a memorable flight but also enhances the start of your vacation from the moment you step aboard.

Daily
Nov 4, 2024

Have an Autumn Wine Soiree The SLO Way in San Luis Obispo

Yes, it’s harvest time — and that means great fall wine festivals, including the third annual Autumn Soirée The SLO Way Nov. 9 on California’s Central Coast. The event will be held from 5 to 8 p.m. in the Garden Courtyard at luxury boutique Hotel San Luis Obispo, recognized as a MICHELIN Guide One Key property.

November 2024
Nov 1, 2024

A Helping Hand

As we edge our way toward winter, I want to remind you how lucky we have been and how we can help those who have not been as fortunate. Please continue to donate to the American Red Cross, which stands ready in any disaster to provide items people need such as water, clothing, food and other supplies.

Remarkable Medellín

Visiting Medellín in Colombia: The Country of Beauty is like stepping into a fantastic story — literally, as the city in the Western Colombian Andes region inspired Disney’s Encanto. Here, valleys, the world’s tallest palms, vibrant communities, colorful houses, garden-like balconies and more prove reality is more picturesque than anything on film. And it’s especially more tempting following Medellín’s remarkable transformation, shedding its troubled past and reawakening as a city of innovation, art, cultural richness, modern infrastructure, thriving tourism and resiliency.

Daily
Nov 1, 2024

Embark on Chile’s Lakes & Volcanoes Route

While Patagonia, the Atacama Desert and Torres del Paine are already well-known Chilean destinations for U.S. adventure travelers, the more recently established Lakes & Volcanoes Route is an up-and-coming circuit distinct for its breathtaking fusion of landscapes shaped by active volcanoes and glacial lakes.