The first day of our road trip through Spain and Portugal ended in Burgos, Spain. Our travel companions, Julie and Paul, had undertaken the Camino de Santiago almost exactly two years prior to our joint trip, and they were eager to share this beautiful city and its UNESCO Heritage-status cathedral they had first visited on their trek through this northern Spanish city.
We arrived late in the afternoon of a late September weekday, and after checking in to our city center hotel, just a block from the old city walls, we made our way to the medieval city gate, very ornate, and passed through it to view the façade of the Cathedral of Santa María. As it was late in the day, we spent just a little time outside of the building, planning to spend some time the next morning to tour its many chapels and aisles before we left town. We enjoyed poking around the vehicle-free narrow ancient streets in the area surrounding the magnificent church, checking out all sorts of little shops, cafés and restaurants as the sun lowered to the west.
One thing we discovered throughout Spain and Portugal along the numerous Camino routes was the “Menu of the Day” most eateries featured. Ostensibly for the benefit of budget-conscious Camino pilgrims but appreciated by many travelers, the option offered by many restaurants offers a three-course menu (first course or appetizer, main entrée and a dessert and beverage) for about 12 euros. We strolled by several restaurants and checked out their three-course menu options before settling on one and enjoying our sidewalk meal as we watched the locals enjoying the evening rituals of dining and visiting with each other at the end of another busy day. We were pleased to discover that many of the shops stayed open fairly late and picked up a few mementos before we returned to our accommodations, strolling along the river which runs just outside the city walls . . . a lovely, relaxing end to the day.
The next morning we arrived at the cathedral as it opened for tours and purchased our tickets and self-guided audio tours (just 9 euros). I had never heard of the Gothic-style Burgos Cathedral (built between the 13th and 18th centuries) which, after I’d spent nearly two hours wandering its many aisles and chapels, was hard to fathom, as the stonework, glass, wood and metal adornments were spectacularly beautiful. It proudly encompasses the tomb of El Cid and his widow. It boasts countless side chapels, and most impressive were its main altar, its “Golden Staircase,” the ornate wooden choir and the main octagonal dome and lesser domes. I could have easily spent far more time there, but we had a schedule to adhere to. I was so thankful our friends had steered us to this lovely, modern city with such spectacular historical treasures at its core.
— Patty Vanikiotis, associate editor/copy editor
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