Businessmen with khaki shorts and navy-blue sports jackets greet you on the streets of Hamilton with a smile and a cheery “Hello.” In the countryside, there are more golf courses per square mile than in any other place in the world, exquisitely landscaped and as green as billiard felt. On the shores, pink sands stretch for mile after mile, so one never has to arrive early to find a secluded spot to lay a towel. Indeed, Bermuda, amid all its British regality, deserves its reputation as one of the most civilized islands in the Atlantic. If you have the good fortune to visit the country on business in the warm-weather months of April through October, it would be a shame not to take advantage of the locale and spend at least two days at leisure.

Hamilton’s busy waterfront © Onepony | Dreamstime.com

An immediate source of stress, driving, has already been alleviated. The country forbids foreigners from renting cars. To traverse the 21-mile-long island, you have a choice of ferries, taxis, buses or renting a moped. First stop for many is one of the South Shore beaches, to plant your feet in the soft pink sand and feel your body de-stress with every footprint. The shoreline is exquisite. Beaches are buttressed between jagged cliffs to create sandy coves that might only have room for a couple or two. More populated stretches of beach, like Warwick Long Bay, never feel congested even on cloudless summer days.

In the early morning, before the beaches start to fill with sun-drenched bodies and the day becomes too hot, you can ride horseback on the trails of South Shore Park. Spicelands Equestrian Centre guides riders on an hour-long jaunt to the grounds of this park, which sits on a bluff just above the South Shore beaches. When not staring in awe at the mix of coastline, cliffs and expansive ocean views, you’ll ride through a forest of tall cedar trees and past fields of wild mustard; blooming cacti; and pink, blue and white oleander.

Another unheralded mode of travel on the island is the “pedal-bike,” the term used by Bermudians for a bicycle. From 1931 to 1948, the Bermuda Railway carried more than 14 million passengers from one end of the island to the other. Then came the advent of the automobile, and the line was pulled to make way for a walking and biking corridor called the Railway Trail.

Rent a bike from Oleander Cycles, which has six locations on Bermuda, and head west along the northern shores. Children in uniform play cricket on schoolyard lots and women tend to their gardens, brimming over with purple morning glory and red hyacinth during the spring months. Eventually you’ll reach Somerset Village and the smallest drawbridge in the world, mentioned in historical records as far back as 1620. Walk across the red-brick arch and stare at the fish that congregate in waters below before making the return trip.

Wherever you go in Bermuda, the enticing ocean waters are never far from view. Yet Bermuda’s treacherous shoals did not always provide such a gracious welcome mat to this island oasis. For more than five centuries, ships plying the waters around Bermuda met their abrupt demise on the wall of thorny reef ringing the island. So many boats mysteriously slipped off the map here that the area surrounding the island soon became known as the dreaded Bermuda Triangle. More than 350 documented shipwrecks surround the island. With the possible exception of the Florida Keys, Bermuda’s graveyard of ships conceals more wrecks than any other area in the Western Hemisphere. They include Spanish galleons from the late 16th century, Confederate blockade runners from the Civil War, European luxury liners that went down in the early 1900s and immense World War II freighters.

These vessels’ misfortunes are undersea treasures to a scuba diver. Many diving outfitters in Bermuda offer guided jaunts to the wrecks, where you can follow the leader through a maze of galleys. No history textbook can recreate the electrifying feeling of swimming through a completely intact ship sunk on the ocean floor. One of the classic storybook shipwrecks is The Hermes, a 165-foot steel-hulled freighter built during World War II which now stands upright in 80 feet of crystal-clear water. Then there’s Bermuda’s largest shipwreck, the 499-foot-long Cristobal Colón, a trans-Atlantic luxury liner that crashed into the reef in 1936. Another option is the Mary Celestia, a high-speed paddlewheel steamer that smuggled much-needed guns, ammunition and food into Charleston, S.C., during the Civil War. The sleek 225-foot boat sank in 1864.

These ocean waters are so clean and clear snorkelers also have the opportunity to see a vast array of sea life. Snorkel near the reefs of Church Bay and you’ll find blue parrotfish, the multicolored queen angelfish, turtles, maybe even porpoises. Whale watchers head to local favorite Spittal Pond. This nature preserve is also savored by birdwatchers, who can spot white longtails making nests in the cliffside caves and egrets feeding in the shallows of the pond. More surprising are the wild hens, roosters and their young found in the park and throughout the island.

Crystal Caves © Ramunas Bruzas | Dreamstime.com

Grab a bus or taxi to the eastern end of the island, near the international airport, and you’ll reach Crystal Caves. In 1905, two boys were playing cricket when their ball fell in a hole, leading to the discovery of a vast network of caves. You can no longer row a boat atop the large underground lake, but you can take a tour into the caves to see stalagmites and stalactites that are shaped like organ pipes and alligator heads. The reflection of these formations in the lake looks like the skyline of Manhattan.

At the western end of Bermuda is the island’s top tourist attraction, the Royal Naval Dockyard. Created by the British just after the American Revolution, the sprawling fortress has been turned into a park that caters to the many cruise travelers who dock here. On premises is the Bermuda Maritime Museum, a massive stone building that houses gold bars, jewelry, gold coins and pottery recovered from 16th- and 17th-century shipwrecks. This includes the Tucker Treasure, found by local diver Teddy Tucker in 1955 when he discovered the wreck of the Spanish vessel San Antonio.

Royal Navy Dockyard © Ramunas Bruzas | Dreamstime.com

From the Royal Naval Dockyard, it’s an easy ferry ride back to the capital city of Hamilton. Shopping for British items can often be cheaper in Bermuda than in the States because of lower tariffs. In town you’ll find cashmere sweaters, woolen goods from Scotland, fine china,  and porcelain. With the island’s rich history, you can also uncover a wealth of antiques, including 19th-century furniture; engravings; and nautical goods like steering wheels, captains’ bells and brass nameplates. More contemporary fare can be found at the Bermuda Arts Centre, where the island’s foremost artists set up studios. Shops also sell local perfumes, handbags and those cute Bermuda shorts businessmen wear along with sports jacket and tie.

The Fairmont Hamilton Princess hosts the best happy hour on the island. Late afternoon on Fridays, locals stream out of work and congregate on the hotel patio overlooking the harbor. Listen to live music and down favorite Bermuda cocktails like the Dark and Stormy and Rum Swizzle. To try Bermuda’s signature dish, the slightly spicy fish chowder, traditionally served with a splash of Gosling’s Black Seal rum, head to The Lobster Pot several blocks away. Port O Call is another popular seafood restaurant in town, known for pan-seared local fish dishes and spiny lobster.

Getting to Bermuda, less than a two-hour flight from Boston, New York, Philadelphia and Washington D.C. and lying just 600 miles off the coast of North Carolina, is now a cinch. You no longer have to deal with dangerous shoals to reach its shores. Your only concern is whether to leave the pink sands and tour the island or stay on the beach and lather on the lotion. That’s a nice choice to make.

Bermuda Info to Go

Though we recommend taking a taxi from Bermuda International Airport (BDA) to your hotel, they can be costly. Buses and ferries run regularly and make stops around the island. The ferries are a relaxed way to see Hamilton and the eastern and western tips of Bermuda. Bermuda has quick torrential downpours, especially during the spring, that can drench you in moments; pack a raincoat and an umbrella. May and June, before summer crowds descend on the island, are a great time to visit. The weather is warm, the beaches uncrowded, and you can get into most restaurants without a wait. The Atlantic is at its warmest July, August and September; October is also relatively warm and quiet.

Bermuda Lodging

The Fairmont Hamilton Princess Opened in 1885, the hotel hosted royalty and celebrities; a recent $35 million renovation refurbished all guestrooms. A free boat ride takes guests to The Fairmont Southampton to access amenities. 76 Pitts Bay Road, Hamilton $$

Grotto Bay Beach Resort Lounge on the beach, swim in the heated pool, dine at three restaurants, enjoy live music at night and get a massage in a private cave at Bermuda’s only all-inclusive resort. 11 Blue Hole Hill, Bailey’s Bay $$

The Reefs The Reefs is an intimate resort with its own magnificent stretch of sand. The over-the-top service makes you feel like a local. 56 South Road, Southampton $$$

Restaurants in Bermuda

Henry VIII Down the road from The Reefs, this local favorite features fish, shrimp scampi and filet mignon. Also try the sushi, which many Bermudans consider the best on the island. 69 South Road, Southampton $$

The Lobster Pot Try Bermuda’s signature fish chowder, spiced with sherry pepper sauce and topped with a splash of Gosling’s Black Seal Rum, on the patio alongside businessmen in Bermuda shorts. 6 Bermudiana Road, Hamilton $$

Port O Call You can’t miss this town favorite on Front Street overlooking the harbor and ferry in Hamilton. It wins accolades for fresh grilled fish, lobster and sweet pan-roasted scallops. 87 Front St., Hamilton $$