Of all the places in the world, San Diego still feels to me like the one that got away. With its warm ocean, outdoor lifestyle and chill attitude, there aren’t many reasons to leave once you’re there. Somehow, though, after college, I did leave, and so did my husband. Fast-forward a decade or so, after a blind date led to two boys, a house in the Los Angeles suburbs and a desire to share all the San Diego things with our teens during spring break.
San Diego County experiences the same urban sprawl as Los Angeles. With Mexico to the south and Orange County to its north, its 18 cities, 52 communities and 96 unincorporated areas, each with its own vibe, fan out from its coastal downtown.
“I think this is it,” I said uncertainly, looking up at the powder-blue second-floor unit with white trim, which could have been where I lived in Mission Beach during my sophomore year. “It’s definitely the right street.” Mission Beach falls into the “community” category of San Diego County. A paved, 3-mile-long boardwalk hugs the line between the sparkling ocean and the alphabet courtyards packed with condos and homes fighting for ocean views. The occasional restaurant or bar appears in between. At one time, college students and young professionals rented these dwellings, enjoying the ocean-facing patios. Now, most sport short-term rental placards.

Belmont Park © Bonandbon DW | Dreamstime.com
Belmont Park, a small amusement park, divides what locals call South Mission and North Mission. Pedestrians, bikers and roller bladers share the boardwalk that runs north to Pacific Beach. South Mission is the quieter side of Mission Beach. Rides, an indoor pool, a wooden roller coaster from 1927 and games of chance pack Belmont Park. After our uncertain hunt for remnants of my past, we met friends here who were also vacationing in San Diego during the school holiday.
While their kids and ours enjoyed the unlimited rides wristband, we adults savored drinks on the patio of Beach House, which led to plans to meet the next day at Petco Stadium for an evening Padres game.
Mission Boulevard separates Mission Beach from Mission Bay. A 12-mile-long bike path separates the water from condos, hotels and restaurants. People rent boats and jet skis to enjoy the placid bay filled with islands and islets. We rode around the bay, though we didn’t do the whole loop. The teens ditched us to go back and find their friends.
Although SeaWorld sits minutes from where we stayed in Mission Beach, we had taken the boys when they were younger, so instead we explored new-to-us Liberty Station, a 360-acre former Navy training facility. Today, as a foodie paradise and cultural magnet, it encompasses boutiques, restaurants, wineries, breweries, art galleries and workshops. The boys may or may not have loved it until we saw the Mardi Gras-inspired characters walking on 6-foot stilts down the court- yard between the buildings — a novelty that characterized the creativity flowing through the halls and rooms of Liberty Station.

Walkway along Mission Beach © Bonandbon DW | Dreamstime.com
We gave in and, the next day, allowed the boys to hang with their friends and parents on the beach. This provided the perfect opportunity to enjoy a day date, and we reached out to Sidecar Tours, which drives couples and groups in motorcycle sidecars. We opted for the wine and beer tour. Donning old-fashioned goggles and helmets, we felt like we had traveled back in time … but with modern smartphones to capture the experience. Our driver shared stories about San Diego as we huddled in the sidecar while he whisked us through Downtown, Old Town and Balboa Park. Because it was only us, he designed a tour that combined elements he thought would interest us as we stopped to sample food and libations and discover a different version of San Diego.
The next day we took the boys Downtown to explore USS Midway Museum. Before decommissioning in 1992, the naval aircraft carrier served in Vietnam and the Cold War and rescued personnel after a volcano blew in the Philippines. There were buttons to push in the control room, ladders to climb between levels, and several aircraft to explore on the landing strip. More than 750 volunteers make this museum a reality, many who once served on the carrier.
Not far from the museum, Balboa Park spans 1,200 acres — an urban oasis bigger than New York’s Central Park and Chicago’s Millennium Park combined. This park hosts 18 museums and San Diego Zoo. The zoo also operates an incredible sister property, San Diego Safari Park in Escondido, offering overnight stays and treks through the plains filled with wild, uncaged animals.

La Jolla Cove © Chon Kit Leong | Dreamstime.com
We decided to spend a day in La Jolla Shores, where years ago we met friends for a weekend tennis tournament at oceanfront La Jolla Shores Hotel. Each morning we’d witness people clad in full-body wetsuits, scuba tanks strapped to their backs, walking backward into the ocean. Surfers and kayakers shared the water. On this visit, we opted for a kayak tour with Everyday California, a local outfitter supplying equipment and lessons for all water sports. We split up to share double kayaks with the kids around La Jolla Cove. Our guide took us into a nearby cave where bootleggers once stashed their supplies. He told us about the manmade reef beneath our vessels that restored the marine ecosystem and warned us about the proper way to ride the tide so as not to flip over on the way back. My son and I got a little too enthusiastic and did just that.
We spent the last two days of our vacation in Carlsbad (the home of Legoland; we visited several times when the boys were under 12, probably the maximum age for kid-sized visitors). Although we didn’t visit the zoos on this trip, we did see wildlife in Agua Hedionda Lagoon and Discovery Center. The V.I.P. tour allowed us to touch animals and hear the stories of each one’s rescue and possible release. The center overlooks the only recreational lagoon in California, and we rented kayaks from California Watersports to paddle around the shoreline. Guests can also waterski, jet ski and float on pontoon boats.

USS Midway © Kateryna Chyzhevska | Dreamstime.com
Our boys love a good electric bike adventure. Getting to know Carlsbad on bikes rented from Carlsbad E-bikes offered a more intimate way to commune with a new area. We whizzed along the beach, explored Carlsbad Village and enjoyed the sweetness of world-famous Handel’s Homemade Ice Cream.
In many coastal towns, the day ends with people lining the beach to observe the sun dipping into the ocean, leaving behind trails of pinks and purples. This is a ritual I miss from my days living in San Diego. At least now, though, we can experience the awe during visits with our kids.
LODGING
CATAMARAN RESORT HOTEL AND SPA
Walk among tiki torches and enjoy sunset luaus at the Polynesian-themed resort. Propped on the border between Pacific and Mission beaches, the resort enjoys the ocean across the street and Mission Bay in its backyard.
3999 Mission Blvd., San Diego
$$$
Located on Coronado Island, accessible via bridge, the resort features beachfront Victorian-style buildings with signature red turrets and offers kid-centered and adult-approved programs such as seasonal ice skating and oceanfront campfires.
1500 Orange Ave., Coronado
$$$$$
SHERATON CARLSBAD RESORT & SPA
The resort provides mini-guests with a priority entrance walkway to enter Legoland through the back of the park. Guests can use the pool and waterslides at sister property Westin Carlsbad Resort and Spa, next door. Room balconies offer views of the famous
Flower Fields at Carlsbad Ranch.
5420 Grand Pacific Drive, Carlsbad
$$$$
DINING
BORN AND RAISED
With waiters sporting Converse shoes and white tuxedos and pictures of rappers on the walls, this steakhouse in Little Italy promises an experience your mind and mouth won’t soon forget. Perfectly seared steaks and stiff classic cocktails pair with fur tables and vintage décor.
Reservations required.
1909 India St., San Diego
$$$$$
THE CAMP STORE
At this hot dining experience, the ambience comes naturally from picnic tables and fire pits on a bluff overlooking the Pacific Ocean. Artisanal pizzas and roasted s’mores make the perfect accompaniment to catch that sunset and enjoy live music. Get there early; reservations not accepted.
7201 Carlsbad Blvd., Carlsbad
$$
EDDIE V’S PRIME SEAFOOD
Seafood lovers enjoy this must-taste restaurant in La Jolla where exceptional service accompanies prime ocean views. Kids not into oysters? The steaks and burgers satisfy the pickiest tastebuds.
1270 Prospect St., La Jolla
$$$$
INFO TO GO
More than 80 destinations offer non-stop flights to San Diego International Airport, located 3 miles from Downtown. Many hotels provide shuttle service, but car rental companies and ride share services are available on site. Blacklane, a chauffeured car company, offers many vehicle options.
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